新设计，是新锐前沿的创意，
展现未来国际珠宝设计风向标；
新生代，是精英的珠宝设计师，
汇聚时代发展的声音和力量；
新理念，是创新的空间交流模式，
搭建沟通和碰撞的桥梁。
“新设计、新生代、新理念”DBC国际珠宝设计师作品展由红桥市场、长流当代美术馆、纽约牧风国际珠宝股份有限公司[NOOMAD INC]联合主办，长美艺术股份有限公司、北京爱微藏科技有限公司承办，十余家海内外艺术组织协办，联动北京国际设计周、中国国际珠宝展和艺象万千国际网络展览馆。作品设计风格具有当代性、国际性和多元化的特点，促成了东西方文化的交流与对话，无疑是一场珠宝设计盛宴。
本栏目将持续推送入驻的优秀国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家作品，期待您的关注。
— 01 —
Fabiana Gadano
阿根廷
EDUCATION
Industrial designer, Universidad Nacional La Plata, Argentina. 1982 -1986.
Fine Art studies, School of Fine Arts, Quilmes, Argentina. 1978 -1981.
EXHIBITIONS（Part）
. WERT/voll. Umweltbundesamt, Dessau and Grassi Museum, Leipzig, Germany. 2019.
. Gioielli in Fermento, Joya Barcelona 2019.
. Frame. NZ Quoil gallery. MJW 2019. Handerwerkmesse Art and Design.
. Heart Failure. Alliages. MJW 2019 Werkstatt gallery.
. Heart Failure. Alliages. Lille, France. 2018.
. A jewel for the lake. Cominelli Foundation, Brescia, Italy. 2018.
. Chaos. Alliages. Lille, France / Sevilla and Madrid, Spain. 2018.
. Attention is a shape. I Pazzi Factory. Pisa, Italy. 2018.
. Gioielli in fermento, Piacenza, Italy. 2018.
. LOOT 2018: MAD about jewelry. New York Museum of Arts and Design.
. Winding and connecting, Ariane Hatmann gallery, Hagen, Germany. 2018.
. A jewel made in Greece, AJMG. Athens, Greece. 2018.
AWARDS
. Special mention. Premio Fondazione Cominelli. Italy. 2018.
. Special mention. Premio Fondazione Cominelli. Italy. 2015.
. 1st acquisition prize, H2O Collection. Fundación Diario La Capital. Argentina. 2012.
– Statement · 设计说明 –
It has been more than eight years that I make jewelry with PET (polyethylene terephthalate) recycled from plastic bottles. The goal of transforming this material into jewels backs on the reflective effect that jewelry allows, which is reinforced by its potential portability. It relates to the great capacity of jewelry to communicate, to establish a “we think” in the place of an individual self.
我用回收的PRT塑料瓶制作首饰已经有八年多了。用这种材料制作首饰的目的，是基于首饰的佩戴性附加的引人反思的能力。当代首饰蕴含的强大的交流潜力，可以引发每一位参观者的自我思考。
《Besieged II》Brooch
《被包围的 II》胸针
Recycled PET plastic bottles, acrylic resin, copper, nickelsilver, stainless steel.
材料：回收PET塑料瓶，丙烯酸树脂，铜，镍银，不锈钢
8.5 X 9.5 X 2.5 cm
I live in Argentina, where recycling policies are barely emerging. My project points to the fate of a widely used material that is mostly produced to be discarded after a short utility. The use of transformed PET (polyethylene terephthalate) into jewelry pieces is an attempt to reflect on current values concerning environmental care and the consequent quality of life. At the same time, the inherent condition of jewelry connotes the idea of treasure and conservation, and somehow they pertain to my concerns about actual garbage treatment and pollution.
我所在的阿根廷，几乎没有出台相关的回收政策。我的作品中指出了被广泛使用的塑料制品在短暂使用后被丢弃的命运。使用经过改造的PET塑料制作首饰是对当前关于环境保护和随之而来的生活质量价值的一种反思。与此同时，首饰的内在属性使它隐含着珍惜和保护的理念，这与我关心的垃圾处理和环境污染问题有关。
《Besieged IV》Brooch
《被包围的 IV》胸针
Recycled PET plastic bottles, acrylic resin, copper, nickelsilver, stainless steel.
材料：回收PET塑料瓶，丙烯酸树脂，铜，镍银，不锈钢
15 X 7.5 X 3 cm
The “Besieged” collection refers in its configuration to the organic world but presents a particular Nature, made of creatures marked by a threat of extinction. So if I ask myself if it would be possible for statement jewelry to make the community grow in reflection and awareness, my answer is a courageous yes. As jewelers, we can set a word by bringing out the poiesis of our worries and hopes.
《被包围的》系列作品所用的回收塑料来自于有机物，却使一些物种被打上了濒临灭绝的标签。所以，这一系列作品的意义更多表现为一种“概念宣示”，试图引起观者对于回收塑料和环境问题的反思和意识。作为首饰设计师，我以这种方式表达自己的忧虑和希冀。
《Besieged V》Brooch
胸针《被包围的 V》
Recycled PET plastic bottles, acrylic resin, copper, nickelsilver, stainless steel.
回收PET塑料瓶，丙烯酸树脂，铜，镍银，不锈钢
18 X 7 X 3.5 cm
— 02 —
Mario Albrecht
德国
Professional background
· 2012 – 2014 Apprenticeship as metal designer by Dipl. Designer Berndt Schweizer
· 2015 / 2016 Gestalter im Handwerk, Akademie für Gestaltung und Design München by Barbara Schmidt
· since 2017 self-employed designer
Exhibitions（2019）
· drawn to the net, Galerie des BKV, Munich, Germany
· black & white, envisionartshow.com
· Weihnachtsaustellung der Mitglieder, BKV, Munich, Germany
· Radical Craft, Direktorenhaus, Berlin, Germany
· FINAL PARADE, Galerie RA Amsterdam, Netherlands
Awards
nominated for ZLR Jewellery Awards 2019
Meisterpreis, 2017
FORM-Form aus Handwerk und Industrie, 2017
nominated for Schmuckaward 2017
second place Schmuckaward 2017 category innovation
Member of
NOD – not only decoration
BK – Bundesverband Kunsthandwerk
BKV – Bayerischer Kunstgewerbe Verband
– Statement · 设计说明 –
Jewellery has always had an emotional touch to the person wearing it. People are surronded by things that have an influence on their lives and are used to adorn them.
首饰总是容易对佩戴者有情感上的触动。人们被那些影响他们生活的东西所影响，并习惯于美化它们。
In the beginning there might have been beautifull shells or stones people found. Flowers bound to a ribbon or an extraordinary piece of wood. Later, the jewellery became more special, new metals and raw materials were discovered, new techniques were invented. Today, we are surrounded by plastic, it has a deep influence on our lives as well as on the enviroment.
一开始，可能是一些美丽的贝壳或石头被人们发现，便会将它们绑在蝴蝶结或一块意义非凡的木头上。后来，随着贵金属和新材料的发现，新技术的发明，首饰变得更加特殊。如今，我们被塑料包围着，它对我们的生活以及环境有着深远的影响。
The brooches are made out of fruit net bags. After a call in the local press the people in Schongau, my hometown, started to collect the nets for me. The packaging garbage they usually would throw in the bin, became something valuable they collect and keep until I make jewellery out of it.
这些胸针是用水果包装网袋制作的。我给家乡的当地媒体打了一通电话后，人们开始为我收集这些网袋。它们原本会作为垃圾被丢弃，但当我能把它制成首饰，这些网袋成为了会被人们收集和保存的“贵重物品”。
Each brooch is made from about 40 – 50 nets and consists hundrets of layer. The attachment is made out of sterling silver, the needle out of stainless steel. The meassumenst are 70mm x 80mm x 20mm.
每一个胸针由约为40至50个包装网袋制成，堆积数百层。附件是纯银的，针是不锈钢的。尺寸约为70mm x 80mm x 20mm。
— 03 —
Mette Olsen
&Tinne Delfs
丹麦
Mette Olsen (1953) art jewelry designer
Education: Design School Kolding, Denmark
Various Danish censored exhibitions e.g The Charlottenborg Spring Exhibition, KP, The Biennale for Crafts and Design
Tinne Delfs (1957), writer
Education: master of literature Aarhus University, Denmark
Various writing and editorial work, e.g. KUNSTUFF (DK), Kunsthåndverk (NO), exhibition catalogs Awarded in International Writing Competition on Architecture, Henning Larsen’s Fond
Biennale for Crafts and Design
– Statement · 设计说明 –
NATURAL PEARLS is made in a collaboration between Danish contemporary art jewelry designer Mette Olsen (born 1953) and Danish writer Tinne Delfs (born 1957). Mette Olsen and Tinne Delfs is an aesthetic collaboration between practice and theory and an attempt to reduce the boundaries between them. The main expression is contemporary art jewelry.
《“天然珍珠”》系列是由丹麦当代首饰设计师Mette Olsen和丹麦作家Tinne Delfs合作完成的。他们之间是理论与实践美学的合作，通过当代首饰淡化它们之间的界限。
NATURAL PEARLS is jewelry made in the Anthropocene epoch.
《“天然珍珠”》系列是人类时代首饰的代表。
The necklaces hold a simple form which is recognizable down trough ages and connect our time with the past. Our ancestors found pieces of amber, coral, stone and other nature materials on the beach and wore the findings in a leather cord. Now evolution has reached the Anthropocene epoch and we mainly find plastic waste on the beaches.
我们可以从首饰的材料和形式辨别年代，探知过去。例如在原始时代，我们的祖先在海滩上捡到琥珀、珊瑚、石头和其他自然材料，将他们用皮绳串成首饰。而现在，我们在海边捡到的主要是塑料垃圾。
NATURAL PEARLS express genuine natural beauty. The beads look ‘real’ and at first you see delicate and valuable materials as jade and coral. All the cracks, holes, the radiant glove and the play of colors suggest that the beads are made from natural materials. And in that sense, they are. Because plastic is derived from natural, organic materials e.g. crude oil, cellulose, coal, natural gas and salt. In addition, plastic is an important resource in a sustainable strategy and much, much too valuable to throw away.
《“天然珍珠”》系列表现的是当下真实的自然。这些珠子看起来真的很”真实”——就像从前人们捡到的精致的玉石和珊瑚一样。所有的裂缝，孔隙和颜色都表明着当下真实的自然状态。从这个意义上说，他们确实是“天然的”——塑料也是来自天然的有机材料，如原油、纤维素、煤、天然气和盐。此外，塑料是可持续发展战略中的重要资源，而且非常有价值，不应被随意丢弃。
NATURAL PEARLS are made from green and red plastic fishing nets lost or dumped into the sea, washed ashore at Denmark’s west coast and finally found and collected by the artists. Afterwards the plastic nets are divided into small pieces, melted and casted in a primitive handmade mold. Last the beads are bored out and drawn on cords made of black catfish skins. NATURE PEARLS consist of two items: a green necklace JADE and a red necklace CORAL. Each necklace measures approx. 20 cm. in diameter. A single bead measures approx. 2,5 cm. in diameter.
这一系列作品由遗失或废弃的塑料渔网制成，它们被发现在丹麦西海岸的岸边，被艺术家们收集。之后，塑料网被分成小块熔化，并用原始的手工模具铸成珠子，串成项链。绿色的模拟翡翠，红色的模拟珊瑚。每条项链的直径约20厘米。单个珠子直径约 2.5 厘米。
— 04 —
Wiebke Pandikow
芬兰
EDUCATION
2013Lahti University of Applied Sciences, Institute of Design and Fine Arts BA of Culture and Arts, Jewelry Design
2011/12Toyama University, Faculty of Art and Design, Takaoka, Japan, student exchange 2008Salpaus Further Education, Lahti, Vocational Qualification in Crafts and Design,
Artisan for goldsmithing
2007School for Gold- and Silversmithing, Staatliche Zeichenakademie Hanau, Germany, student exchange
SOLO EXHIBITIONS
2020 Taidekeskus Itä, Lappeenranta, FI
2019Precious Plastic, Gao Shann, Helsinki, FI
2018By the Sea, Kalleria, Helsinki, FI
2016Herbarium, A-gallery’s Vault, Tallinn, EST
Window gallery Hytti, Helsinki, FI
2015Pop up showcase at Helsinki Fashion Week at Helsinki Opera House, FI
Precious Plastic, O Gallery, Helsinki, FI
GROUP EXHIBITIONS（2019）
Lié.e.s Off Joya, Institut Français – Barcelona , Barcelona, ES
Four Seaons, Gao ShAn, Helsinki, FI
Lié.e.s, Art’Course Gallery, Strasbourg, FR
Hatara Project Time Perception Vol.5, Autohaus Schwanthalerhöhe, Munich Jewelry Week 19, DE
Northern Lights, CODA Museum, Apeldoorn, NL
European Prize for Applied Arts, National Design and Craft Gallery and Kilkenny Castle, Kilkenny, IE
– Statement · 设计说明 –
Since 2014 I have been working with plastics, in particular used plastic bags. Plastics, without which our civilization wouldn’t be possible, is ubiquitous and problematic. Especially plastic bags are a symbol for mindless consumerism and throw-away society and because of that, are interesting for me as a material.
自2014年以来，我一直在用塑料制作首饰，尤其是回收塑料袋。没有塑料，我们的文明是将不可能发展成现在的样子。但是，塑料袋是盲目消费主义和“丢掉”主义的突出象征，因此，它对我来说是一种有趣的材料。
I developed my own techniques to work with them, using only a clothes iron and a soldering iron. With the diligence and time it takes to craft what is usually seen as waste material into jewellery, I hope to remind people of the impact this material has, negative and positive. In our culture, plastics are commonplace, invaluable yet easily cast aside. For me they bear the possibility of beauty.
我开发了只使用熨斗和金属焊接制作塑料首饰的技术。我将通常被视为的废旧材料制作成首饰，希望以此提醒人们意识到这种材料的消极和积极双重影响。在我们的文化中，塑料是司空见惯的，没有价值的，随用随丢的废弃物。但对我来说，它们承担着美的可能性。
The necklace from the Aponogeton series is a necklace full of pale leaves which loosely imitate the leaf form of plants of the botanical genus Aponogeton. They are connected to pieces of wood which they rest on and which they in turn hold up and present on the wearer’s neck.
苍白的叶子松散地挂在树枝上，模拟Aponogeton属植物的形态。叶片与树枝共同组成项链的一部分。
We as a civilization have so infused our everyday lives and our environment with them that they seem to have taken on a life of their own, like fungi in a forest’s earth, pervading every part of the ecosystem. Plastics have grown entwined with us, and we with them.
在我们的文明中，塑料已经如此融入我们的日常生活和环境，以至于它们似乎有了自己的生命，就像森林里的真菌一样，遍布生态系统的每一个部分。塑料已经与我们缠绕在一起，我们也与塑料缠绕在一起。
The necklace is presented in wooden case as if it was something found in a remote jungle on a scientific expedition. Like something that has come into existence only over the last few decades as we have slowly immersed the world in plastics. Maybe it is an imagination of evolution: the result of plants, bacteria, fungi that make discarded plastics a part of their own growth, like corals use calcium carbonate for their exoskeletons. A new symbiosis.
这条项链被放在木箱里，仿佛是在一次科学考察的偏远丛林中发现的。就像近几十年来我们慢慢沉浸在塑料中而出现的东西一样。也许这是进化的想象：植物、细菌、真菌的结果，使废弃的塑料成为自身生长的一部分，就像珊瑚使用碳酸钙作为外骨骼一样。一种新的共生关系。
