DBC国际设计师空间 | 冲突与和解中的概念美学

新设计，是新锐前沿的创意，

展现未来国际珠宝设计风向标；

新生代，是精英的珠宝设计师，

汇聚时代发展的声音和力量；

新理念，是创新的空间交流模式，

搭建沟通和碰撞的桥梁。

DBC国际设计师空间已入驻超过百位国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家，资历与创意纵贯大半个世纪，横跨30多个国家和地区。为了打破传统展览的空间限制，DBC与艺象万千国际网络展览馆全面合作，在全球超过50个合作网点和超过20家网络新闻媒体同步宣传，为会员设计师提供线上线下全面的展销服务。

“新设计、新生代、新理念”DBC国际珠宝设计师作品展由红桥市场、长流当代美术馆、纽约牧风国际珠宝股份有限公司[NOOMAD INC]联合主办，长美艺术股份有限公司、北京爱微藏科技有限公司承办，十余家海内外艺术组织协办，联动北京国际设计周、中国国际珠宝展和艺象万千国际网络展览馆。作品设计风格具有当代性、国际性和多元化的特点，促成了东西方文化的交流与对话，无疑是一场珠宝设计盛宴。

本栏目将持续推送入驻的优秀国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家作品，期待您的关注。

— 01 —

JUNCHANG LU

中国

EDUCATION

2005-2009 Bachelor Industry Design, Beijing Forestry University, Beijing, China

2016-2018 Master of Fine Art, Contemporary Jewellry and Body Oranment, Alchimia Contemporary Jewellery school, Florence, Italy

EXHIBITIONS

Work in progress show “Paused”, Alchimia, Florence, Italy, 2017

JOYA Barcelona Art Jewellery Fair, Barcelona, Spain, 2017

Work in progress show “Transition”, WG Kunst, Amsterdam, Netherlands, 2018

Graduation solo show “琢/zhuo/”, Antonella Villanova Gallery, Florence, Italy, 2019

The Marzee International Graduate Show, Galerie Marzee, Nijmegen, The Netherlands, 2019

– Statement · 设计说明 –

An individual cannot grow without the influence of his surroundings, the more mature you are, the more awareness you got, about the importance to love, help, and benefit each other.

一个人如果没有周围环境的影响，就无法真正成长，越长大，越意识到爱、帮助和相互受益的重要性。

Brooch《Untitled》

胸针《无题》

Material: ebony, bottle glass, resin, oxidized silver

材料：乌木，玻璃瓶，树脂，氧化银

尺寸/Size:75x85x30mm

Symbiosis comes from two Greek words that is meanings “with” and “living”. It describes a close relationship between two organisms from different species. It is sometimes, but not always, beneficial to both parties. It stands for interdependence; coupling; interaction; the attempt of two different organisms to support one another for survival.

共生来自两个希腊语单词，意思是”与”和”生活”。它描述了来自不同物种的两种生物体之间的密切关系。但有时，它并不总是对双方都有利。共生意味着相互依存、耦合、互动，两种不同生物体为了生存而进行的相互扶持的尝试。

Necklace《Untitled》

项链《无题》

Material: ebony, bottle glass, resin, oxidized silver

材料：乌木，玻璃瓶，树脂，氧化银

尺寸/Size: 300x350x50 mm

In my work, I explored the potential possibilities of the materials using my own methods I combined them in a unique way leaving each piece with a strong contrast and elegant balance. For me this symbiosis among different elements bring more active and upbeat feelings.

在我的作品中，我探索了材料潜在的可能性，我用自己的方法将它们组合在一起，使每一件作品都具有很强的对比度和优雅的平衡。对我来说，这种不同元素之间的共生带来更积极和乐观的感觉。

Brooch《Untitled》

胸针《无题》

Material: ebony, bottle glass, resin, oxidized silver

材料：乌木，玻璃瓶，树脂，氧化银

尺寸/Size: 67x80x45 mm

— 02 —

Sandra Pampin

委内瑞拉

1973 Caracas, Venezuela

Lives and works in Madrid, ES

Education

1991-1996 Architect, UCV, Caracas, VE 2005-2007 Architect, UPM, Madrid, ES

2011-2013 Jewelry/Metalsmithing, EA3, Madrid, ES

Experience and Exhibitions

2012PLE 2012. Jewelry drawing contest. Port, PT. First prize

2012Travel Exhibition. Project Comenius. Brussels, BE

2013PLE 2013 Jewelry design contest. Lisbon, PT.

2013Emerging Design Exhibition. Madrid Costume Museum. ES

2016Open STUDIO SQUINA, School and Studio of art jewelry in Madrid, ES

2018Pre_Texto, OFF Joya Barcelona, ES

2019Pre_Texto, OFF Joya Barcelona, ES

– Statement · 设计说明 –

“ Change is the essential condition of existence and movement, the opportunity to grow and develop ”

“变革是生存和进步的基本条件，是成长和发展的机会”

Cicatrices series, is my interpretation of the landscape as an expression of the physical and the transformation that occurs within it, by the repea- ted occurrences that transform and characterize it over and over again.

“伤疤”系列是我对景观和其中不断发生的变迁的解释，表现了物质在一定的空间中往复循环的转变与特征化。

Brooch《Primera Cicatriz》, #1 & #2

胸针《第一道伤疤》

Copper patinad with gun blueing, sterling silver, and stainless steel

材料：枪色铜片、银、不锈钢

尺寸/Size：4.5 x 7.5 x 2.3 cm

Often and sometimes unconsciously, when I take on a new project I’m surprised by wanting to work on my perception of a place again and the sensations that I have felt there. With the pieces from ‘Cicatrices series’ I want to show encapsuted landscapes that below their scars show the territory that I truly believe that they represent.

每当我着手一个新的项目，我常常下意识地被似曾相识的感觉触动。“伤疤”系列表现伤痕之下的空间，被封装的、隐秘的风景。

In this work I started by drawing lines carved and drilled landscape images on the metal which represent milestones that are repeated within the drawing. I then give volume to the metal which stretches and breaks by the pressure of these markings, creating folds and scars. This is the exterior layer that hides another sheet of metal moulded in a spontaneous way as an earth or water scene that encapsulates a surface with a hidden interior.

这件作品的创作思路是，先在金属上绘制和雕刻横向图像，它们代表风景中的里程碑；然后打破这些标记，给予金属片体积上的拓展，产生褶皱和疤痕。从而，外层的金属片为内层创造了空间，可以隐藏另一块金属，作为水土或场景被封装在结构内部。

— 03 —

Youzhi Bi

毕又之

中国

教育背景：

2019 硕士，安特卫普皇家艺术学院，首饰设计与金工，比利时

2019 本科，谢菲尔德哈勒姆大学，首饰设计与金工，英国

Education:

2019 MA, Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, Jewellery Design and Goldsmith | Distinction, Belgium.

2016 BA, Sheffield Hallam University, Jewellery Design and Silversmith | First-class Honours, UK

个人简介：

毕又之，当代首饰设计师。

2019年，作品获安特卫普皇家艺术学院的首饰设计与金工奖， 2016年获谢菲尔德哈勒姆的首饰与金工的最佳展示奖、Assay Master奖。

作品曾展出于慕尼黑首饰周；罗马Myday-byday画廊7天7位艺术家2019展; 毕业作品被选入Marzee International Graduate Show。与YKK拉链的合作项目展出于伦敦YKK展厅。

Biography:

Youzhi Bi, contemporary jewellery designer.

During her studying, she won the Prize of Jewellery Design and Goldsmith 2019, Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp; Sheffield Institute of Arts Awards and Assay Masters Award in 2016.

Her works were exhibited in Munich Jewellery Week 2019, 7 Days 7 Artists in Myday-byday Gallery in Italy in 2019, also selected by Marzee International Graduate Show. And her project with YKK was exhibited in YKK showroom in London in 2019.

– Statement · 设计说明 –

One of the most exciting moments of her art making is to be encountered with a blank sheet of paper ready to be transformed. Worrying about making it dirty, Youzhi always tries to control the lines of her drawings to be sharp and accurate. However, no paper can stay clean, and no drawing can be perfect. What is believed to be a mistake is actually what makes a drawing a personal distinctive piece of art.

对她来说，艺术创作中最激动人心的时刻便是提笔面对一张空白干净的白纸。但过程中总是担心会出错将白纸弄脏，为了避免涂擦，她会用力刻画线条，笔触深刻与纸面。然而没有白纸可以保持干净也没有绘画是完美的，正是我们认知中的错误，才是绘画变成富有个性特色的艺术作品。

She found a way to keep that sensation of drawing on paper, but this time by using thin fine silver, it is pale, soft, and gets scratched easily. Youzhi traces her landscapes on the fine silver, as she would have on paper. She uses only a few structured lines to define nature scenes and folds these drawings into wearable brooches.

她找到了一种方式来重现在纸张上作画的情感，而材料却转换为的是纯银。它呈暖白色，质地柔软，并且更容易留下痕迹。又之将她所看到的景观描刻在了银片上，如同描画于纸张上一般。她仅用了几条结构线来描画自然景色，再将这些图纸折叠成可佩戴的胸针。

While wearing the brooches, you cannot evade scratching the surface. These scratches will be part of the natural mistake as there are no rules of how the tree grows and how the mountains are laying one behind another.

在穿戴过程中，磨擦是无法避免的，然而这些自然划痕是构成作品完整的一部分。凌乱的划痕如同无规则的自然一样，我们无法预测树木将如何生长，山脉该如何铺设。

The first scratches break your heart because they feel like a mistake, after it is them that allow the viewer to trace a story. Through wearing the pieces, they evoke further storytelling by their daily contact with the body.

第一条划痕总是令人心碎，像是一个失误。但日后，正是这些痕迹的产生，才能从中描绘出你的经历。通过佩戴这些作品，与身体接触互动，它们才能唤起更多的故事，并完善作品。

— 04 —

CATERINA ZUCCHI

意大利

·1999年开始研究玻璃工艺，参加Leghorn delle Arti工作室为期六个月的玻璃和Tiffany技巧课程

·2015年，经过十余年与玻璃相关的活动和工作经验，获得莱霍恩及托斯卡纳地区商会the Chamber of Commerce of Leghorn and the Tuscan Region颁发的工匠大师称号。

·作品在世界各地展览和销售

– Statement · 设计说明 –

I’m a researcher of forms; my creations have always been distinguished by this research, even in the period when I was training, during my studies, stages or workshops. My artistic path concerns the attempt to let Murano glass jewels which are tied to the thousand-year-old history of decoration since forever, to have a new contemporaneity.

我的创作一直以研究“形式”为重点，从学生时期一直到我拥有自己的工作室。我试图让拥有千年历史的慕拉诺（Murano）玻璃首饰工艺具有新的当代性。

Creativity is an urgency, a spontaneous gesture, a moment, a mood. I’m not in search of the perfect glass bead, but of an object that is in harmony with the environment surrounding it, coherent and close to my creative impulse. My glass creatures talks about feelings and emotions to wear. They are not only jewels but means of communication.

创造力是一种紧迫感，一种自发的姿态，一个瞬间，一种情绪。我不是在寻找一颗完美的玻璃珠，而是在寻找一个与周围环境和谐、连贯、贴近我创作冲动的物体。我的玻璃作品探讨配饰的感受和情感，它们不仅是首饰，更是一种交流方式。

— 01 – Light Weight —

《Light Weight》Necklace

《轻与重》项链

Materials: Murano glass, cement and steel wire nylon coated

材料：Murano玻璃，水泥，尼龙包覆钢丝

尺寸/Size：62cm x 7cm x 6,5cm

Light and fragile glass stones. Blown glass wraps around the cement that is housed in its soft and sinuous silhouette. The cement, heavy and rigid. Two materials united but distinct. Light and heavy, consistent and fragile as a thought. Thought has no weight, it can be considered a bulky and present. Glass stones as thoughts.

轻而易碎的玻璃石头。吹制的玻璃包裹着水泥，水泥被包裹在柔软而弯曲的轮廓中。水泥，又重又硬。两种材料结合而又不同。轻和重，一致和脆弱的思想。思想没有重量，它可以被认为是一个笨重的礼物。玻璃石头就像思想。

《Light Weight》Bracelet

《轻与重》手镯

Materials: Murano glass, cement and steel wire nylon coated

材料：Murano玻璃，水泥，尼龙包覆钢丝

尺寸/Size：5cm x 6cm (glass element)（玻璃部分）

— 02 – Unprotected —

It is a laceration that interrupts harmony.

It is a jagged and sharp edge that can hurt. The injury can hurt or defend us.

It is attractive, although obviously dangerous. Do you ever wear something that hurts you?

This is an extreme glass jewel. It is something to wear but can hurts you (It looks so dangerous, but it is not so dangerous). If you are willing to wear it you must be aware of its nature.

它是一个破坏和谐的裂伤。

它是一个可以制造伤害的锯齿状锋利边缘，但它既可以伤害我们，也可以保护我们。

它很有吸引力，但显然也很危险。你有没有戴过什么伤到你的东西?

这是一件极好的玻璃首饰。你可以穿戴它，但可能造成伤害；(它看起来很危险，但其实没有那么危险)。如果你愿意戴它，你必须知道它的性质。

《Unprotected》Necklace

《未经保护的》项链

Materials: Murano glass, pvc section, elastic cord

材料：Murano玻璃，pvc型材，松紧带

尺寸/Size：90cm长

玻璃部分/glass element dimensions：

18cm x 10cm x 7cm

《Unprotected》Bracelet

《未经保护的》手镯

Materials: Murano glass, pvc section, elastic cord

材料：Murano玻璃，pvc型材，松紧带

尺寸/Size：16cm x 6cm

— 03 – Private Messages —

Private Messages speaks about emotions, mental bond, thoughts and unspoken words. Talk about what I can’t see and keep intimately protected within us. To access, to show the content of the glass elements, they must experience a change that in this case would be the breaking of the elements themselves. But will a contact with reality Private Messages, emotions and thoughts be able to survive? It is a complete and incomplete work at the same time. Other messages can be added or revealed…

私人信息谈论的是情感、精神纽带、想法和未说出口的话。谈论那些我看不到的东西，并把它们藏在我们内心深处。为了接触和展示玻璃球的内含物，它们就必须被打碎。但是，与现实的接触，私人的信息、情感和思想能够生存吗?这是一部既完整又不完整的作品，佩戴者可以添加其他的信息以供展示。

《Private Messages》Necklace

《私人信息》项链

Materials: Murano glass, paper and red cotton string.

材料:Murano玻璃，纸和红棉线

— 05 —

Katharina Moch

德国

Education

2008 / 2009MA, Jewellery, Silversmithing and Related Products

Birmingham City University

2004 / 2005Exchange Semester BA 3rd year, Birmingham City University

Awards

2015Artist in Residence Idar Oberstein

2009Young Talent Prize – WCC Europe,Special commendation

Louisa Anne Ryland Scholarship

British Jewellers’ Association， Stonesetting Award

2008Arts and Humanities Research Council, Postgraduate award

Leonardo da Vinci Programm， Study bursary

Exhibitions（2019）

Radical Craft, Direktorenhaus, Berlin (DE)

Ho ! Ho ! Ho!, friends of Carlotta, Zürich (CH)

– Statement · 设计说明 –

I create flamboyant, sculptural and wearable pieces that combine ambivalent aspects of appeal and repulsion. Jewellery that attracts attention, pieces that catch the eye and demand self-confidence and conviction to wear, thus challenging the boundaries of what constitutes jewellery.

我创造浮夸的，雕塑风格的可穿戴作品，结合了矛盾的吸引力和排斥力。佩戴这些吸引眼球的首饰需要一定的自信和信念，从而挑战首饰的界限。

My work unsettles the borderline between beautiful and ugly in order to tease the perception of the beholder and to evoke reactions. I find it exciting and thrilling to trigger curiosity and challenge viewers to engage and discover, while simultaneously leaving space for individual interpretation. I believe that provoking this playful inquisitiveness is of value to us because it stimulates and originates distinct conditions, which in turn allow for experiences that we would not be exposed to otherwise.

我的作品在美与丑之间划清了界限，以此来挑逗观者的感受，引起他们的反应。我发现激发好奇心，挑战观众参与和发现，同时为个人的解读留出空间。我相信，激发这种好玩的好奇心对我们来说是有价值的，因为它会刺激并产生不同的条件，而这些条件反过来又会让我们获得一些在其他情况下不会接触到的体验。

The aesthetic qualities of my ambiguous jewellery are based on an organic form-vocabulary and the introduction of innovative materials and techniques, which I combine and contrast with my traditional goldsmithing skills. An open approach and material-based research, spontaneity and the dynamics that come from intuitive working processes enable me to develop a range of elements, which are then combined to create the compositions of my vibrant work.

我的作品表现的模棱两可的珠宝的美学，是基于有机的形式语言和创新的材料技术，并结合和对比传统的金匠技能。开放的方法和基于材料的研究，自发性和来自直观工作流程的动态，使我能够开发一系列元素，然后结合，以创建我充满活力的作品。

— 06 —

Meiyi Yang

杨美伊

中国

杨美伊出生成长于中国深圳，2013年从广州美术学院毕业，并于2014年开始了在罗切斯特理工大学金属与珠宝设计专业的研究生生涯。不仅仅是珠宝设计，她对服装设计和戏服，造型设计有着极大的兴趣和热情，她喜欢发现拓展珠宝，服饰和身体之间的关系，她认为这些东西相辅相成。在她看来，人的身体就是为自己发声，展示自己个性最好的平台，而珠宝和服装是最好的媒介。

她的作品常常发布于美国各中艺术和时尚类杂志以及网站，并且在美国和中国展出。在2016年夏天毕业于罗切斯特理工大学之后成立了杨美伊工作室，目前在纽约定居发展。

AWARDS

– Arts & Crafts Design Award 2017

– Winner of 2017 NICHE AWARDS

– 2016 Rising Star 30 exceptional craftpeople under the age of 30.

– Overall winner and 3D Art Category winner.

2016 “Spotlight” Art Exhibition Contest host by The International Gallery Of The Arts (IGOA), Toronto Canada

– Nominated of Savage Art Council’s 10th Annual Juried Art Show and Competition. 06/2016

– 2016 Barbara Heinrich Studio Award : Outstanding Achievement for Creativity Award.

– 2010 The Second Prize in Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts.

EXHIBITIONS（part）

– NYC Jewelry Week

– The 4th TRIPLE PARADE Biennale for Contemporary Jewellery, Shanghai, China, 2018

– “OFF – OF” group show, 10/2017 Biggercode Gallery Soho. New York

– WAVELENGTH Fashion X Art New Consumerism, 02/2017

– ” Wearable Expressions” 7th International Juried Exhibition, 01/2017-

– ” THIS IS US ” 2016 Holiday show, 12/2016 -01/2017

– ” MAKERS 2016 ” 5th Annual Membership Show, 12/2016 – 01/2017

– “Spotlight” Art Exhibition Contest online exhibition, 15/06/2016 – 01/08/2016 The International Gallery Of The Arts (IGOA),

– Savage Art Council’s 10th Annual Juried Art Show and Competition, 06/2016 – 07/2016

– MFA Thesis exhibition IN BETWEEN, 04/2016-05/2016

– Statement · 设计说明 –

— 01 · 插曲 —

女人在社会中扮演了很多角色，并且在不同的角色之间尽最大的努力。然而现在的生活对于女性的要求也越来越多，女性在社会中的独立也愈发困难。社会歧视“战场”，工作场所的“天花板”，求职中的性别歧视，家庭暴力等。在这种情况下，她们需要坚强勇敢，才能成为生活的勇士。“插曲”的灵感来源于木兰替父从军的中国民间故事。虽然铠甲原都是男人身上配备的要素，但她认为女人不仅需要外表珠宝首饰装饰，更需要保护自己和为未来战斗的铠甲武器。

— 02 · IN BETWEEN —

关于 IN BETWEEN的概念更倾向于寻求共生和平衡，软弱的女孩和坚强的战士，你是哪一个？说话少或多的人，你是哪一个？上面的选择就像盔甲和珠宝，它们是有显著差异的项目。例如，先驱者似乎出生于男性，而后者通常是由女性穿的。然而，我的作品是把这两种不同的事物联系起来，然后在一定的状态下进行混合，从而产生一种强烈的感觉美。这样的身体片断不仅可以保护女性，创造出强大的外表，而且还能展现出美丽和优雅。最后，我希望所有的女性都能坚强勇敢地追求自己的梦想，勇敢地以盔甲勇往直前。

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