DBC国际设计师空间 | 金属艺术首饰的实验新语境

新设计,是新锐前沿的创意,展现未来国际珠宝设计风向标;

新生代,是精英的珠宝设计师,

汇聚时代发展的声音和力量;

新理念,是创新的空间交流模式,

搭建沟通和碰撞的桥梁。

    DBC国际设计师空间已入驻超过百位国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家,资历与创意纵贯大半个世纪,横跨30多个国家和地区。为了打破传统展览的空间限制,DBC与艺象万千国际网络展览馆全面合作,在全球超过50个合作网点和超过20家网络新闻媒体同步宣传,为会员设计师提供线上线下全面的展销服务。
    “新设计、新生代、新理念”DBC国际珠宝设计师作品展由红桥市场、长流当代美术馆、纽约牧风国际珠宝股份有限公司[NOOMAD INC]联合主办,长美艺术股份有限公司、北京爱微藏科技有限公司承办,十余家海内外艺术组织协办,联动北京国际设计周、中国国际珠宝展和艺象万千国际网络展览馆。作品设计风格具有当代性、国际性和多元化的特点,促成了东西方文化的交流与对话,无疑是一场珠宝设计盛宴。
    本栏目将持续推送入驻的优秀国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家作品,期待您的关注。
01
 
以色列当代首饰设计师
Ariel Lavian
贝扎勒尔艺术与设计学院讲师。1983年出生于以色列

2012年毕业于Bezalel艺术与设计学院,时尚与珠宝(B.F.A)

2016年在Bezalel获得概念设计硕士学位。

 

EDUCATION & ACHIEVEMENT
Ariel Lavian, contemporary jeweler, designer, creator. He holds a BA in Jewelry and Fashion and a master’s degree in industrial design from the Bezalel Academy of Art and Design. AJF ambassador in Israel, member of the Klimt02 gallery in Barcelona – a contemporary jewelry gallery, the proud owner of Ariel Lavian studio. His works are exhibited in many exhibitions in Israel and abroad and are in many collections.

EXHIBITIONS(2019)

2019 – “Jewelry and anatomy”, Tincal Lab, Porto, Portugal

2019 – “LIE-E-S”, Institut français, Barcelona, Spain

2019 – “In My Opinion…Jewellery with a Message “, Gallery of Art in Legnica, Poland

2019 – “Reimagining Otherness”, Pratt institute, Design Gallery, New York, United States

2019 – “RENEWAL”, Dock Street Studios, Dundee, Scotland

2019 – “LIE-E-S”,Galerie Art’Course, Strasbourg, France

2019 – “Gioielli in Fermento, Museo di Storia Naturale del Mediterraneo, Livorno, Italy

2019 – “Jewelry Making: Past & Present, the Museum for Islamic Art, Jerusalem, Israel

2019 – “Gioielli in Fermento, Villa Braghieri, Castel San Giovanni, Italy

2019 – “Metamorphosis Paramorphsis”, Koniaren , Slovakia

2019 – “In My Opinion…Jewellery with a Message “,galerie YES, Poznan, Poland

2019 – “Metamorphosis Paramorphsis”,Galeria Caraffova vaznica, Presov , Slovakia

2019 – “Hammer My Jewel “,Galerie beyond, Antwerp, Belgium

 Rusty silver系列胸针
– Statement –
“Contemporary is a concept about time, a description of art, a new development about jewellery”. Contemporary jewelery relies on the tools and techniques of classic jewelery, but allows itself to use a wider range of materials and techniques and combine them. In my work, I tried to illustrate a situation where a classic piece of jewelry, a silver brooch, is evolving, both in form and in material.
    Ariel赋予作品艺术描述的同时,以生锈这一动态的动作来体现时间的概念。粗糙的颗粒体表和砖红的颜色让材料和技术的结合更生新意,是关于首饰的新发展。当代首饰依赖于传统首饰的工具和技术,但允许使用更广泛的材料和技术,将它们结合起来。    “在我的作品中,我试图说明一件经典的珠宝,一枚银胸针,在形式和材料上的演变。”

《Silver Square (number 1) 》42X42X8 mm

《Number 2》64X64X19

《Only Rust (number 3)》 71X64X19

02 
 
中国当代首饰设计师
Sara Chyan 
QUALIFICATIONS2015 – 2017  Master of Arts in Jewellery and Metal. Royal College of Art

2010 –  2013 Second class honours, Bachelor of Arts (Hons.) in Visual Arts. Hong Kong Baptist University

EXHIBITIONS(2018-2019)

Rising Stars 2019.UK New Ashgate  Gallery

Remember Me.Oxford Magdalen Art Space

New Horizons Young Talents Exhibition.WuZhuhai Coast Gallery

Artust Innovation Strength of Designers from British Academies.Wu Han Horizon L1A2 Gallery

Camera Lucida – International Exhibition of Contemporary Jewelry and Mixed Media. New York United Nations Headquarters

Style’18 x Museum of Craft and Design. San Francisco Museum of Craft and Design

Triple Parade – The 4th Biennial for Contemporary Jewellery in Shanghai.Shanghai HOW Art Museum

Return to Shanghai project.Best of British. Shanghai Exhibition Center

Ontime Show SS19 collection.Shanghai Westbund Art Center

JOYA Barcelona Art Jewellery & Objects.The Design Museum of Barcelona Contemportary Objects.Starting from metal.Shanghai M50 Art Gallery Life on Mars?.London Madeinbritaly Gallery

Symbiosis International Exhibition. Art Jewelry Night of Budapest.Budapest KÉK- Contemporary Architecture Centre

Innovation Strength of Designers from British Academies.Wu Han Horizon L1A2 Gallery

New Designer – One Year In.London Business Design Centre

Autor International Contemporary Jewelry Fair .I.L. Caragiale National Theatre of Bucharest Liquid Rooms – The Labyrinth.ITS Luquid International Art Show. Venice Palazzo Ca’ Zanardi Munich Jewellery Week.Perfect Strangers.Munich Showcase 20A

AWARDS

May 2018  Winner.Industart Award

Apr 2018  Bronze Award.A’ Design Award

June 2017  1st runner up.The Beau Han Xu Beau Cut TM Swarovski Award

May-Jun 2014  The Buzz Award.Hong Kong Fine Art Prize 14

Oct 2013  Champion of young designers (under 30).Diamanti Per Tutti(DPT) diamond accessory design competition

– Statement –
    珠宝不仅是一种装饰品,而且是表达个性的媒介,可以承载丰富的情感内涵。Sara 选择使用镓和铋,因为她相信这两种金属材料具有象征意义属性,可用于反映佩戴者的情绪状态。    这一系列作品的灵感来自于她对温度的痴迷,探索了利用温度来评估自己的情绪状态的可能性。

Jewellery is an object that carries more than just an intrinsic significance, for it is not merely an ornament but also a medium for expressing one’s individuality. Sara chose to use gallium and bismuth because she believes these two metallic materials possess symbolic attributes that can be employed to reflect the emotional state of the wearer.This project is inspired by her obsession with heat, exploring the possibility of using temperature to assess one’s emotional state.

    温度在她的项目中扮演着重要的角色。温度的变化可能导致所选金属的物理形式发生变化。热量引起的固体和液体相之间的这种过渡使金属具有情感特征,并将金属首饰转化为情感符号。    在我们的日常生活中,很少出现使用镓和铋化物。它们的低熔点使她能够将热因子注入到珠宝首饰中。

Temperature plays a major role in her project. Changes in temperature can lead to changes in the physical forms of the chosen metal. This transition between solid and liquid phases caused by heat gives metal an emotional character and transforms the metallic jewellery into an emotional symbol.The application of gallium and bismuth is rarely seen in our day to day life.  Their low melting points allow her to instill  heat factor into her jewellery pieces.

    镓在29.76°C融化,从固体到液体和液体,从固体到液体,对温度的反应非常灵敏,因此,镓的状态转化令人着迷。与镓的低熔点相比,铋在271.5°C下融化,铋的氧化是惊人的,自然结晶的形式和颜色可以告诉我们温度。
Gallium melts at 29.76°C, the shifting state of gallium is fascinating, from solid to liquid and liquid to solid, incessantly react to the temperature. In contrast to gallium’s low melting point, bismuth melts at 271.5°C, and the oxidation of bismuth is stunning, where nature crystalised forms and colours can tell us the temperature.
03
 
日本当代珠宝设计师
小谷一典Kazunori Kodani

1996年生于日本京都2015年进入神户设计大学Kobe Design University

目前就读于同一所大学的研究生院

EXHIBITIONS

2019 Kobe Design University of Graduation of exhibition (Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art / Kobe / JAPAN)

2019 Kisei-no-Katachi (itami city craft center / Itami / JAPAN)

2019 THE LOOP 2019 SNAG CHICAGO (Chicago / AMERICA)

2019 10 MARVELOUS JEWELRY EXIBITION 5 (gallery okariya / Tokyo / JAPAN)

2019 SOFA CHICAGO (Chicago / AMERICA)

2018 Look at Us (gallery C.A.J / Kyoto / JAPAN)

2018 KOREA JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE EXHIBITION (KCDF gallery / Seoul / KOREA)

2017 KOREA JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE EXHIBITION (gallery Kitanozaka / Kobe / JAPAN)

2016 KOREA JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE EXHIBITION (Heesu-gallery / Seoul / KOREA)

to rot=to live系列胸针
(01)
(02)
(03)
材料:黄铜和铁
– Statement –
    我创作的这一系列作品的原则是以日常可见的简单元素创作出拥有深刻内涵的作品。当它作为首饰被佩戴时,这些材料使人感到亲切。
I create works with the theme of creating more attractive shapes using simple motifs that I see everyday.I feel that the motif has a deep story that changes while it has a simple shape.I think that I can make the material feel closer by wearing it as jewelry.
    我通过加热金属,使其重塑并改变颜色,达到一个似腐烂的物化过程。我认为金属也和自然界中其他生物一样,具有自然美的一部分。只要有生命,它总有一天会腐烂。腐烂代表其生命存活的机能——以此表示金属是活着的并且正在生长的创作主题。
I made a work with the them of rot.The metal reshapes and changes color by heating it up.From this,I have created this creation with my idea that the metal is part of natural beauty like human beings and other creatures which are continentally changing. As long as live,it will decay someday.But decaying can be proof of being alive.I expressed metal is alive and growing.
04
 
中国当代首饰设计师
Shuoyuan Bai
EDUCATION2015-2019, M.F.A. Jewelry, Savannah College of Art and Design, Savannah, Georgia, USA

2010-2014, B.F.A. Jewelry Design and Metalsmithing, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, New York, USA

EXHIBITIONS(2019)

A View in Frame, Sulfur Studios, Savannah, Georgia, USA

Mu Lan: New Age Chinese Art Jewelry, Manhattan, New York, USA

Collective Ground: Recent Works by Pratt Jewelry Alumni, Steuben Gallery, Brooklyn, New York, USA

SCAD Pop-Up: Designs by Students and Alumni, Industry West, Manhattan, New Yotk, USA

JOYA Barcelona Art Jewellery & Objects, Disseny Hub, Barcelona, Spain

Collectiva Meeting International Exhibition, Porto, Portugal

Cluster Crafts Jewellery Edition, The Old Truman Brewery, London, UK

Art+Jewelry: Intersecting Spaces, Athens Jewelry Week, Benaki Museum, Athens, Greece

The Legacy Award & Collection Exhibition, Espace Solidor, Cagnes-sur-Mer, France

Smithsonian Craft Show, National Building Museum, Washington, D.C., USA

American Craft Show, Baltimore Convention Center, Baltimore, Maryland, USA

Material: Hard + Soft, Patterson-Appleton Arts Center, Denton, Texas, USA

AWARDS

Atlanta Jewelry Show Juried Exhibition Competition Earring Category 1st place, 2017

Atlanta Jewelry Show Juried Exhibition Competition Brooch Category 2nd place, 2017

IDA Design Awards, Accessory-Jewelry Category Gold Prize, 2016

– Statement –
    自然是不可预测而美丽的。这种意识形态在东方文化的传统园林中体现,在这些园林中,这些景观不仅仅是美学的视觉表现。它们是人们对世界认识的体现,通过将自然和建筑结合在一起来体现。日新月异的风景是美丽的,诗意的;但更重要的是,情绪化,反省。
Nature is unpredictable, and it is through uncertainty that nature is beautiful. This ideology is represented in traditional gardens in eastern culture, where these landscapes are more than visual representations of aesthetics. They are the embodiment of people’s understanding of the world, manifested through bringing nature and architecture together. The ever-changing scenery is beautiful, and poetic; but more importantly, emotional, and reflective.
Brooch《Drift_Ⅰ》胸针《漂移-1》

Brooch《Drift_Ⅱ》胸针《漂移-2》

    同样的理解也适用于金匠,因为通过自发过程产生的纹理具有它自己的美。它是可以控制的东西和随机的之间的平衡,因此每次尝试都是通过过程寻找美的独特体验,而每个创造都是通过材料自我反思的实践。
The same understanding could be applied to metalsmithing, as texture created through a spontaneous process holds its own beauty. It is a balance between what could be controlled and what is random, therefore each attempt is a unique experience in finding beauty through process and each creation is a practice of self-reflection through material.
Brooch《Echo》胸针《回声》

    我使用纹理和形式,通过材料寻找稳定感,并致力于使主体和对象之间有意识的接触。
I work with textures and forms, searching for a sense of stability through materials and aiming to enable mindful encounters between subjects and objects.
Brooch《Untitled》胸针《无题》

05
 
 
Natalia Gomensoro & Flavia Bertorello—— 美国当代首饰设计师 ——

Natalia Gomensoro     因为找不到自己想要的首饰,于1989年创建首饰品牌Metalnat,并很快生产出自己的第一个戒指。她从乌拉圭蒙得维的亚的几位拉丁美洲大师那里学习了银匠技术,并锻造出一些很快供不应求的独特作品。她的建筑研究影响她的珠宝设计,其特点是对空间关系和传统工业材料的使用有敏锐的理解。她从对比中营造出一种独特的美学,创造了自己的风格,她的作品被认为是”工业珠宝”和”小雕塑’。

SELECTED EXHIBITIONS

Sept. 19 – Show 2nd seminar China-Uruguay Cultural Gallery, Beijing China

Jan. 16 – Solo Show Gallery Paseo, Punta del Este, Uruguay

Aug. 12 – Featured in “America Jewelery vol lll” book, USA

Sept. 11 – Featured in “Ring a Day” by Lark Books, USA

Apr. 11 – Ring a Day Show for SNAG, Seattle, USA

May. 10 – Invisible Dog Gallery, Brooklyn, USA

Flavia Bertorello

    出生于1980年,是布鲁克林的艺术家和建筑师,通过一种实践来调查形式和物质之间的关系,包括:以各种格式、比例和空间环境来书写、绘制和试验金属。

SELECTED EXHIBITIONS

August 2019- Iron and Granite: IN Conversation, Uferstudios, Berlin. Germany.

January 2019- Experimental Installation: sculpture, sound and light- live stream. New

York-Cordoba, Argentina.

2017- Elizabeth st. Garden Fundraising show- Poetry

2017- “Red dot exhibition”- Sculpture- Phyllis Harriman Mason gallery, NYC

2016- “Red dot exhibition”- Sculpture- Phyllis Harriman Mason gallery, NYC

2015- “Red dot exhibition”- Sculpture- Phyllis Harriman Mason gallery, NYC

2010 -“Nuage” – The Lab gallery, NYC

– Statement –
    进化和生长是我们身体每个细胞的核心,是棒状染色体的微小内核,其中遗传信息被编码和传输。在我们的生命概念中,由两个链子相互缠绕的分子的影响是不可估量的,但却是看不见的。自我复制过程在分子水平上是多么优雅,有多少信息和多样性可以打包到如此小的东西中。
Evolution and growth lie at the heart of every cell in our bodies as a tiny kernel of sticklike chromosomes inside which genetic information is encoded and transported. The impact a molecule composed of two chains that coil around each other carrying genetic instructions has in our conception of life is immeasurable, yet unseen. How elegant the self-replication process can be at a molecular level and how much information and diversity can be packed into something so small…
胸针《Coli of Life》
    DNA,看起来像一个扭曲的阶梯,化学元素的复杂组合使旋转成为可能。这种动能就是使我们独特,使我们不断成长和进化的力量。
DNA, looks like a stepladder that has been twisted around, into a complex combination of chemical elements that make the spinning possible. This kinetic, ever changing force is what makes us unique, what makes us grow and evolve. 
材料:银、磁铁、钢筋、铁颗粒和颜料。
    我们认为珠宝的未来取决于这种无限,不断适应,不断变化的模式。
We envision the future of jewellery resting on this infinite, everadapting, ever-changing pattern.
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