DBC国际设计师空间 | 几何结构繁与简中的当代首饰语言

新设计，是新锐前沿的创意，展现未来国际珠宝设计风向标；

新生代，是精英的珠宝设计师，

汇聚时代发展的声音和力量；

新理念，是创新的空间交流模式，

搭建沟通和碰撞的桥梁。

DBC国际设计师空间已入驻超过百位国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家，资历与创意纵贯大半个世纪，横跨30多个国家和地区。为了打破传统展览的空间限制，DBC与艺象万千国际网络展览馆全面合作，在全球超过50个合作网点和超过20家网络新闻媒体同步宣传，为会员设计师提供线上线下全面的展销服务。

“新设计、新生代、新理念”DBC国际珠宝设计师作品展由红桥市场、长流当代美术馆、纽约牧风国际珠宝股份有限公司[NOOMAD INC]联合主办，长美艺术股份有限公司、北京爱微藏科技有限公司承办，十余家海内外艺术组织协办，联动北京国际设计周、中国国际珠宝展和艺象万千国际网络展览馆。作品设计风格具有当代性、国际性和多元化的特点，促成了东西方文化的交流与对话，无疑是一场珠宝设计盛宴。

本栏目将持续推送入驻的优秀国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家作品，期待您的关注。

— 01 —

Qiang Li

中国

EDUCATIONRoyal College of Art, M.A in Jewelry& Metal, Sept.2018-Present, London, UK

Southeast University, M.E in Industrial Design Engineering, Sept.2015-Jun2018 Suzhou, China

EXHIBITIONS

Jewelry Venice Design Week Selection 2019，Venice 2019 Beijing International Jewelry Art Exhibition, Beijing Matter-Morphosis Jewelry Show 2019, London

Rising Stars 2019 Exhibition, Farnham

The Ornament New Year Exhibition, London RCA WIP Show 2019, London

– Statement · 设计说明 –

《Soul-topia》系列

《Soul-topia》01Silver, felted wool, amethyst, resin, silicon, beads, thread, cloth

材料：银，羊毛毡，紫水晶，树脂，硅，珠子，线，布

6*6*7cm

Jewelry is the oldest art in the world, which responding to human needs for beauty. Jewelry is the connection between “things” and “the body”, and it has a mysterious power that can make people excited. From ancient times to the present, and to the future, I believe that the birth of jewelry stems from our respect for life and the love for nature. It grows in the nourishment of the collision between body and soul, the evolution continues in the infinite and limited time and space, each person tells a different story, but never forgets the pure land of one’s souls.

首饰是世界上最古老的艺术，它响应了人类对美的需求。首饰是”东西”和”身体”之间的连接，它有一种令人兴奋的神秘力量。从古至今，到未来，我相信首饰的诞生源于我们对生命的尊重和对自然的爱。它生长在身体与灵魂碰撞的滋养中，进化在无限有限的时空中继续，每个人讲述着不同的故事，但永远不会忘记灵魂的纯净之地。

《Soul-topia》02Silver, felted wool, amethyst, resin, silicon, beads, thread, cloth

材料：银，羊毛毡，紫水晶，树脂，硅，珠子，线，布8*4*4cm

My work “Soul-topia” expresses that everyone has a world in mind, a utopian of the soul, which carrying dreams, memories, secrets, pure childhood and the most real and pure self. In the form of expression, the traditional craftsmanship is combined with contemporary materials. The inspiration comes from nature, the material is more than natural, the concept returns to nature, and more possibilities are explored.

我的作品《Soul-topia》表达了每个人心中都有一个世界，一个乌托邦的灵魂，承载着梦想、回忆、秘密、纯洁的童年和最真实、最纯粹的自我。在表达形式上，传统工艺与当代材料相结合。灵感来自自然，物质比自然，概念回归自然，探索更多的可能性。

《Soul-topia》03Silver, felted wool, amethyst, resin, silicon, beads, thread, cloth

材料：银，羊毛毡，紫水晶，树脂，硅，珠子，线，布

8*8*18cm

— 02 —

Xiangyin Shi

中国

Education2016-2019, M.F.A. in Jewelry, Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD), Savannah, GA, USA 2012-2016, B.A. in Apparel Design and Marketing, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, China

Exhibitions and Shows（2019）

· 2019 Beijing International Jewelry Art Exhibition, Beijing, China · JOYA Barcelona, Barcelona, Spain

· “So Fresh + So Clean” 2019 Ethical Metalsmiths Student Exhibition, Online, USA

· “Digital Communication” M.F.A. Thesis Exhibition, Savannah, GA, USA

· “Coming Full Circle: 2019 Student Juried Exhibition” Society of North American Goldsmiths 48th Annual Conference, Chicago, USA

· The 37th Annual Smithsonian Craft Show, Washington, D.C., USA

· AUTOR International Contemporary Jewelry Fair, Bucharest, Romania

· 2019 American Craft Shows, Baltimore, USA

Awards and Honors（Part）

2019, 2020 Premiul Athens Jewelry Week Award, Romania 2019, Swarovski Design Challenge 2nd Place, USA

2018, SCAD Jewelry Department Endowed Scholarship, USA

2017, The 17th International Jewelry Design Contest Selected, Korea Jewelry Design Association, South Korea

2017, Atlanta Jewelry Show 2017 Student Design Competition Ring Category 3rd Place, USA

2016, International Design Awards (IDA) Silver Prize, USA

Memberships

2019/2018, Ethical Metalsmiths, USA

2019/2018, Society of North American Goldsmiths (SNAG), USA

– Statement · 设计说明 –

《“数字通信首饰”——Post 90’s》

Living in contemporary society is not easy; stress and anxiety lead to isolation making it difficult to express one’s inner world. Technology, however, enables a virtual platform for digital communication, which directly interacts with the human body to collect information, play sounds, project images, play mobile games and more. I combine electronic components with sterling silver and other alternative materials including plastic, wood, resin and found objects to make digital communication jewelry. It acts as a device bridging the tangible and intangible, virtual and real, while acting as a mirror for self- discovery through communication between people and machines.

生活在当代社会是不容易的——压力和焦虑导致的人际孤立，使人们难以表达个人的内在世界。而现代技术支持的数字通信虚拟平台，可以直接与人体交互，收集信息、播放声音、项目图像、玩手机游戏等。我把电子元件与纯银和其他替代材料结合，包括塑料，木材，树脂和其它综合材料，创造出“数字通信首饰”。它充当一种连接有形和无形、虚拟和真实的设备，同时通过人与机器之间的沟通，作为自我发现的镜子。

Brooch《Post 90’s #1》胸针《后90年代 1号》

series: Digital Communication Jewelry

“数据通信首饰”系列
Materials: Plastic (PA12), Copper, Mini Speaker, Wood, Found Objects, Acrylic Paint, Steel (Pin)

材料：塑料（PA12），铜，迷你扬声器，木材，综合材料，丙烯酸漆，钢（针）

尺寸: 8 x 5 x 4 cm

Brooch《Post 90’s #2》胸针《后90年代 2号》

series: Digital Communication Jewelry

“数据通信首饰”系列
Materials: Plastic (PA12), Copper, Mini Speaker, Wood, Found Objects, Acrylic Paint, Steel (Pin)

材料：塑料（PA12），铜，迷你扬声器，木材，综合材料，丙烯酸漆，钢（针）

尺寸: 8 x 5 x 4 cm

— 03 —

Tianyu Zhao

中国

EDUCATION· BA(Hons) Jewellery, Product Design (Jewellery), the School of Jewellery, China University of Geosciences (Wuhan), China

· Jewellery Desgin and Related Products, the School of Jewellery, Birmingham City University, UK

· MFA. Jewellery & Silversmithing, Edinburgh Collage of Art, University of Edinburgh, UK

EXHIBITION

•‘ECA Degree Show’- Edinburgh, UK – 30th May 2019 – 10th June 2019

•‘New Designers 2019 Exhibition’’ – London, UK – 26th June 2019 – 29st June 2019

•‘Flux Exhibition’ – Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery, UK – 12th Sep 2019 – 10th Nov 2019

•‘ZEITGEIST Exhibition’ – Harrogate, UK – 9th Nov 2019 – 30th Nov 2019

•2019 Beijing International Jewellery Festival – Beijing, China – 18th Oct 2019 – 28th Nov 2019

– Statement · 设计说明 –

My work explores the traces of my childhood memory. My collection is created as an amulet for adulthood. It will be filled with the happiness of childhood, to protect and bring courage to face the adult world.

我的作品探索我童年记忆的痕迹，是为成人设计的护身符。它满载着童年的快乐，用来保护和为面对成人的世界带来勇气。

I use acrylic, handmade embroidery pattern and painted fabric as an integral part of my creative process. I strive to capture the beauty of this combination. I focus on improving the wearer’s sensory experience through their interaction with the piece.

我使用丙烯，手工刺绣图案和油漆织物作为我的创作过程的一个组成部分，我试图捕捉这种组合的美，专注于通过与作品的互动来改善佩戴者的感官体验。

I want to express that don’t forget the things you once you owned, treasure the things you can’t get, don’t give up the things that belong to you and keep those past things in memory.

我的作品寓意是想要表达：不要忘记曾经拥有的;珍惜不能得到的;不要放弃属于自己的;把已经过去的在回忆中保留。

— 04 —

Áurea Praga

葡萄牙

EDUCATION2010–2012 Master Degree in Product Design (Jewellery Project), ESAD Matosinhos(PT)

2009–2010 Post Graduate in Jewellery Design, ESAD Matosinhos(PT)

1991–1998 College Degree in Communication Design, FBAUP, Porto(PT)

EXHIBITIONS（2019）

· “Dream Machine”, NY Jewelry Week, Abrons Arts Center, NY(USA)

· Jury for the Tincal lab Challenge“Jewelry and Anatomy”,Porto(PT)

· “Bauhaus10 ”, Tincal lab,Porto(PT)

· “SchmuckSchmock”,TempContemp,Melbourne(AU)

– Statement · 设计说明 –

— 01 《Pop One》 —

《Pop One》Necklaces项链

Plastic, porcelain

材料：塑料，陶瓷

We live in a world where everything seems to be increasingly disposable and replaceable. Fast making, fast wearing, fast discarding. Even relationships drift in these shallow waters, trying to float amongst the huge amount of virtual connections made available by the Internet and fast communication.

我们生活在一个似乎一切都越来越可替代的世界里，制作—使用—丢弃，都是快节奏的。甚至连人与人的关系也只有萍水相逢，一面之交，迅速地流失在互联网和快速通信提供的大量虚拟连接之间。

Are we sitting ducks in a plastic world? Are relationships nowadays Made In China? Do we live in a counterfeit society? Doesn’t reality sometimes feel like an acid trip?

我们是塑料世界的受害者吗？当下的人际关系都是快消品吗？我们生活在一个虚假的社会吗？是否有时现实反倒像一场虚幻之旅？

—02 《RPG Devices》—

01《OMG/WTF》

Aluminium, plastic, glass tiles

铝、塑料、玻璃瓷砖

This set of pieces was created during the celebration of the Bauhaus Centenary. The thing that always drawn me to the Bauhaus utopia is that there’s something disturbing in it. When you think about it, doesn’t the extreme rationality in art and design, the abstraction, geometry, precision, seem to take humanity from life? Doesn’t this perfectly organised environment, where even handmade objects were to be constructed within an industrial idealism, cripple our freedom and turn human beings into some sort of predictable mechanical zombies?

这套作品是在包豪斯百年庆典上创作的。吸引我到包豪斯乌托邦的是其中有一些令人不安的东西。当你思考这个问题的时候，难道艺术和设计中的极端理性，抽象、几何、精确，不像是把人性从生活中带走了吗?在这个完美组织的环境中，甚至手工制品都是在工业理想主义的框架下建造的，难道不是削弱了我们的自由，把人类变成某种可预见的机械僵尸吗?

02《WIP/FML》

Aluminium, plastic, glass tiles

铝、塑料、玻璃瓷砖

When I started to create these adorning devices, I imagined we lived inside this visually fascist world, so I tried to obey and follow their visual rules – the “futuristic” look of technological efficiency – but I added something subversive, the unavoidable rebellious core of human nature, full of contradictions.

当我开始制作这些装饰品，我试着服从和遵守一种视觉规则——“未来”的技术效率——但我添加了一些颠覆性的，人性的不可避免的叛逆的核心，使作品的整体呈现充满了矛盾。

03《YOLO/FOMO》

Aluminium, plastic, glass tiles

铝、塑料、玻璃瓷砖

I needed to camouflage the dissident messages under layers of code, trying to make them fit in and pass almost unnoticed. For that purpose, I used internet acronyms and then composed them on the pieces using a 3×3 pixel lettering that keeps it barely readable. These two code systems also place the pieces in our times, in the contemporary context, like an evolution from the origins of the Bauhaus.

我需要将不同意见的信息隐藏在代码层之下，试图让它们能够被接纳，并在几乎不被注意的情况下通过。为了达到这个目的，我使用了互联网上的首字母缩写，然后用一个3×3像素的字母将它们组合在一起，使其几乎无法阅读。这两种编码系统也在我们的时代，在当代的背景下，就像从包豪斯的起源进化而来。

The suggestion of a system is hidden in plain view, within the shiny elements, hidden within adornment. The mirror glass tiles are the industrial substitute for precious stones and ironically contain a function. The other materials used are also industrial and function oriented, the aluminium grid attaches the piece to the body and the machine sealed plastic is used here to “set the stones”.

系统的暗示隐藏在简单的视图中，隐藏在闪亮的元素中，隐藏在装饰中。镜面玻璃砖是宝石的工业替代品，具有讽刺意味的是，它包含了一种功能。其他使用的材料也是工业和功能导向的，铝格栅连接到主体和机器密封塑料在这里被用来“设置石头”。

03《ILY/IDK》

Aluminium, plastic, glass tiles

铝、塑料、玻璃瓷砖

The typology of the pieces that are suspended from the shoulders resembles a devotional scapular planting the idea of a religion of aesthetics. The helmet-like head piece covers the mouth, like a ritual of silence.

悬挂在肩膀上的作品的类型就像一个虔诚的肩胛种植美学的宗教理念。头盔一样的头套盖住了嘴，就像一种沉默的仪式。

I called this series RPG Devices, because a planned society is like a roleplaying game, but even in a game you can always find a way to make your own choices, to play it in your own terms.

我将这个系列称为RPG设备，因为一个有计划的社会就像一个角色扮演游戏，但即使在游戏中你也总能找到一种方法来做出自己的选择，用自己的方式去玩。

— 05 —

洪书瑶SHUYAO HONG

中国

教育背景：2018－南京艺术学院研究生在读

2014－2018 南京艺术学院本科

获奖及展览情况：

2019 “创意工美”-中国工艺美术创新作品展，厦门

2019.6 作品<云意>获得2019金陵藏宝杯雨花石设计大赛三等奖；

2019.3 作品<立器>获得圣埃蒂安设计优秀奖；

2019.1 作品<立器>入选德国 ‘Talente2019’大展；

2018.12 作品<立器>入选中国国家艺术基金项目《冰与火的集淬-现代金工与玻璃艺术展》；

2018.7 作品<立器>入选首届全国工艺美术大展；

2018.3 获得“江苏省技艺技能大师”称号，第二次“江苏省技术能手”称号；

2017.11 参加“江苏省首届乡土人才技能大赛金银细做项目比赛”获得三等奖；

2017.2 荣获江苏省人力资源和社会保障厅颁发的“江苏省技术能手”称号；

2016.9 参加“中国技能大赛-第44届世界技能大赛全国选拔赛”并获全国第七名；

2015.11 参加 “星工基金12星座大赛情景首饰-双子座”并获奖。

– Statement · 设计说明 –

《Innocence》

We have all been young, but we have gradually lost our innocence in the lone river of the years. Let us turn our attention to the chlidlike world and see the sights we have met in the children’s chlidlike world. Writer Ayn Rand wrote in “The Fountainhead” : Live like an adult, live like a child.

我们都曾经年少，只是在岁月的长河中渐渐遗失了童真。让我们把目光投向童真的世界，在孩子们童真的世界里看到我们似曾相识的景象。作家安·兰德在《源泉》里写过一句话：“像个大人一样生存，像个孩子一样生活。”成年的我们看待幼时玩耍的玩具又是另一种趣味。

《innocence》材料：银，亚克力，锆石

工艺：焊接，铆接，可旋转胸针

灵感来源：孩童时期的玩具-竹蜻蜓

— 06 —

Qianwen Lu

中国

EDUCATION2018-2020 Pratt Institute, Jewelry Design

2016-2018 Pratt Institute MWP, Jewelry Design

2012-2016 Ross School

EXHIBITIONS

2020 Pratt Shows: Design, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, New York

2020 Pratt Jewelry BFA Show, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, New York

2019 Mulan Show, NYC jewelry week event, 327 Canal Street, New York

2019 Pratt Junior Jewelry Show, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, New York

2018 Pratt MWP Sophomore Show, Munson-Williams-Proctor Arts Institute, Utica, New York

2018 Pratt MWP Sophomore Individual Show, Pratt MWP College of Art and Design, Utica, New York 2017 Pratt MWP Freshman Show, Pratt MWP College of Art and Design, Utica, New York

– Statement · 设计说明 –

01 -《Icon》

The Sliding Jigsaw Brooch《图标》——滑动拼图胸针

The Sliding Jigsaw Brooch was inspired by the Chinese folk art puzzle game Klotski. It was invented by a British man named John Harold Fleming, and became popular in China.

这枚滑动拼图胸针的灵感来自中国民间艺术益智游戏Klotski。它是由一个名叫John Harold Fleming的英国人发明的，在中国很流行。

The Sliding Jigsaw represents joyous moments I shared with my little sister playing together. This piece allows the wearer to slide the surface elements along channels. The wearer discovers an unexpected stone with each move of the tiles. The piece allows the wearer to coordinate the stones to match outfits and mood. I created the box to contain the brooch using the geomorphic elements seen on each tile in the brooch as a decorative element on the lid.

滑动的七巧板代表着我和妹妹一起玩的快乐时刻。这件作品允许佩戴者沿着通道滑动表面元素。穿戴者每移动一次瓷砖都会发现一块意想不到的宝石。佩戴者可以通过搭配宝石来搭配服装和情绪。我创建了一个盒子来包含胸针，使用在胸针每个瓷砖上看到的地貌元素作为盖子上的装饰元素。

Material: Sterling silver, 3D printed resin, blue topaz, peridot, tiger eye, pearl, garnet, green onyx, pink cubic zirconia, rose quartz, lapis lazuli.

材料：

银，3D打印树脂，蓝色托帕石，橄榄石，虎睛石，珍珠，石榴石，绿色缟玛瑙，粉红色立方氧化锆，玫瑰石英，青金石；

Brooch box: Birch plywood, laser cut acrylic, black wood stain

胸针盒:

桦木胶合板，激光切压克力，黑木染色

02 -《Diadem, The Little Mermaid》

《小美人鱼的王冠》Sterling silver, reticulation silver, enamel, Kum-Boo gold, pearls

银、网状银、珐琅、贴金、珍珠

The diadem was inspired by a Hans Andersen Fairy Tale, The Little Mermaid. This piece is a reimagining of the last scene of the story in which the Little Mermaid sacrifices herself and dissolves into seafoam. The wire construction represents the undulating sea and the rough waves. The gold foil emphasizes the Little Mermaid’s luminous and ethereal spirit. I desire that we can all embody part of the character’s immortal soul by living in such a way that we do not abandon our original, unique voice or our pursuit of dreams, and that we do not drift with the current.

王冠的灵感来自安徒生童话《小美人鱼》。这幅作品是对故事最后一幕的重新想象，小美人鱼牺牲自己，溶入海底。钢丝结构代表着起伏的大海和汹涌的海浪。金箔强调了小美人鱼发光和空灵的精神。我希望我们每个人都能体现出角色不朽的灵魂，不放弃自己最初的、独特的声音，不放弃对梦想的追求，不随波逐流。

03 -《“A Brilliant Cut”》

The concept of my thesis collection is to breed a unique living “stone” with people’s body movements. I want to mimic textures of different semi- precious stones by creating different patterns of ferrofluid using different magnetic forces and kinetic mechanisms. Within this brooch, I am questioning myself, “Am I aware of the environmental and ethical impact produced by my activity.” I came to understand that my thesis work needs to go through a process of profound research and experimentation, so I transformed the wasted materials from my activity into an out of the ordinary body ornament. I created a brilliant diamond cut pattern behind the brooch to imply that the value of sustainability is equally as the value of a real diamond.

我的作品理念是通过人的身体运动来培育一种独特的活的“石头”。我想模拟纹理的不同半宝石创造不同模式的铁磁流体使用不同的磁力和动力机制。在这枚胸针里，我在问自己:“我意识到我的行为对环境和道德的影响了吗?”我意识到我的论文作品需要经过一个深入的研究和实验的过程，所以我把我的活动中浪费的材料变成了一种与众不同的身体装饰。我在胸针后面创造了一个灿烂的钻石切割图案，以暗示可持续性的价值与真正的钻石的价值是一样的。

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