DBC国际设计师空间 | 当代首饰中的光影与视听互动

新设计，是新锐前沿的创意，

展现未来国际珠宝设计风向标；

新生代，是精英的珠宝设计师，

汇聚时代发展的声音和力量；

新理念，是创新的空间交流模式，

搭建沟通和碰撞的桥梁。

DBC国际设计师空间已入驻超过百位国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家，资历与创意纵贯大半个世纪，横跨30多个国家和地区。为了打破传统展览的空间限制，DBC与艺象万千国际网络展览馆全面合作，在全球超过50个合作网点和超过20家网络新闻媒体同步宣传，为会员设计师提供线上线下全面的展销服务。

“新设计、新生代、新理念”DBC国际珠宝设计师作品展由红桥市场、长流当代美术馆、纽约牧风国际珠宝股份有限公司[NOOMAD INC]联合主办，长美艺术股份有限公司、北京爱微藏科技有限公司承办，十余家海内外艺术组织协办，联动北京国际设计周、中国国际珠宝展和艺象万千国际网络展览馆。作品设计风格具有当代性、国际性和多元化的特点，促成了东西方文化的交流与对话，无疑是一场珠宝设计盛宴。

本栏目将持续推送入驻的优秀国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家作品，期待您的关注。

— 01 —

Namkyung Lee

韩国

Education

2015 Graduate School of Design, Kookmin University，Jewelry Design

Exhibitions

2019 LOOT 2019, NewYork

Autor Fair 2019, Bucharest

2019 ‘Wall Project-Framed, unframed’ Exhibition, KeepinTouchSeoul-CraftSpace, Seoul

2019 Collectiva 2019, Porto

2018 ‘Scene, Memory and Space’Solo Exhibition, KeepinTouchSeoul-CraftSpace, Seoul

2018 JOYA Barcelona Art Jewellery &Objects, Barcelona

2017 ‘3 Sections’ Exhibition, Ahwon Gallery, Seoul

2016 Korea International Jewelry &Watch Fair, COEX, Seoul SIERAAD 2016, Amsterdam

Awards

2007 International Jewelry Design Contest，Good Design Award (Rendering Category)

2018 AUTOR Award 2019 at JOYA Barcelona

– Statement · 设计说明 –

Windows, which merge with the exterior, draw one’s eyes to the view beyond and provoke various specific sensibilities.

窗户与外部融合在一起，将人们的目光吸引到远处的景色上，并激起各种特殊的情感。

For me, spaces with windows and the views through them remain as images from memories, like scenes from photographs. Memories of windows exist as symbols of recall and contain a mixture of specific spaces and their connected feelings, in this sense they are a medium, connecting not only the inner and outer world, but also the past and present. The feelings and memories aroused by gazing through windows stay with us as images. Furthermore, each scene generated by memories remains a perpetual reminiscence through distortion and layering.

对我来说，有窗户的空间和透过窗户看到的风景是记忆中的图像，就像照片中的场景。窗户的记忆是一种回忆的符号，它包含了特定空间和相互关联的情感，在这个意义上，窗户是一种媒介，不仅连接着内部和外部世界，也连接着过去和现在。透过窗户凝视所唤起的感觉和记忆就像图像一样留在我们身边。此外，记忆产生的每一个场景，通过扭曲和分层，都是一种永恒的回忆。

Window

《窗户》

Sterling Silver, Crystal, Cooper, Enameling, Photograph

材料：纯银，水晶，铜，珐琅，照片

尺寸/Size：38 x 100 x 20mm

Combinations of sills, walls, objects, spaces and scenes drawn from memory were used to create composite spaces and then embodied as jewellery. My own photographs, transferred onto windows, expressed moments and memories; faded colors and patterns served as symbols for memories dimmed through time.

从记忆中绘制的门槛、墙壁、物体、空间和场景的组合用于创建复合空间，然后体现为首饰。将我自己的照片，转移到窗户上，表达的时刻和回忆；褪色的图案代表记忆的符号，随着时间的流逝而黯淡。

ROOM

《房间》

Sterling Silver, Wood, Glass, Photograph, Pearl

材料：纯银，木头，玻璃，照片，珍珠

尺寸/Size：70 x 88 x 30 mm

I hope this collection of jewellery, which aims to deliver a lyrical reflection on windows and their relationship to memory, might also provide that same moment of recall and composure brought about when we see the space beyond the window.

我希望这一系列旨在对窗户及其与记忆的关系产生情感的首饰，能让我们在看到窗户外的空间时，引发同样的回忆和安宁。

Gaze

《凝视》

Sterling Silver, Quartz, Cooper, Enameling, Photograph, Pearl

材料：纯银，石英，铜，珐琅，照片，珍珠

尺寸/Size：52 x 84 x 23mm

— 02 —

刘宜兰

中国

刘宜兰，毕业于伦敦艺术大学中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院珠宝设计专业，同济大学工业设计专业(珠宝方向)。设计师关注设计带给人们的情感体验，结合当代元素和数字化手段，以独特的视角切入，创造出别具一格的首饰作品。

获奖参展情况 Exhibition & Awards

2019.07 中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院“Distinction”优秀毕业生

2018.10 参展TP2018第四届国际当代首饰双年展

2018.04 参展中国与瑞士一流学府当代首饰邀请展

2018.03 参展上海设计周

2017.10 作品GOTH NOUVEAU于中国3D打印文化博物馆收藏、陈列

2017.06 第二届汇创青春——上海大学生文化创意作品展示活动(工艺美术组)三等奖

2017.01 模样第一届青年创意设计大赛首饰设计组二等奖

2016.05 作品WHISPER在设计共和展出

09/2019 Graduated from Central Saint Martins with “Distiction” 10/2018 Attended 4th Triple Parade Biennial for Contemporary Jewellery

04/2018 Attended Sino-Swiss Contemporary Jewelry and Acces- sory Design Exhibition

03/2018 Attended Shanghai Design Week

10/2017 Jewelry work Goth Nouveau displayed in 3D Printing Museum of China

01/2017 Jewelry work Flutter won the second prize in MUYANG Design Competition

05/2016 Jewelry work Whisper displayed at Design Republic

– Statement · 设计说明 –

—“ Ataraxia 绪光” 系列 —

Yilan Liu’s collection aims to discuss the potential of emotional experience between wearers and jewellery pieces. With accelerating urbanisation, the rise of self-determined and independent women is stimulating the growing demand for emotional experience derived from contemporary jewellery.

“ Ataraxia 绪光” 系列通过探讨佩戴者与当代首饰的关系，探索由首饰激发的情感体验。当代独立女性的崛起，使首饰不再是单调的装饰，而是个性化的表达，甚至成为某种情感需求。

In the Ataraxia collection, Yilan engages in the relationship between wearers and their jewellery pieces through the lens of historical European architecture. Inspired by Gothic architectural interiors, the collection encapsulates the sublime internal atmosphere, exploring and skilfully exploiting Gothic structural details to stimulate the particular feelings familiar to this genre. Liu has used synthetic gemstones, regarded as a lower eco-imprint material, cutting them into unusually flat surfaces to allow their colours to cast intensely toned lights onto the skin.

在“Ataraxia 绪光”系列中，设计师 Yilan Liu 以历史悠久的建筑为视角，讨论当代首饰所唤起的情感共鸣。设计灵感源自哥特式建筑内部崇高而静谧的特殊氛围，探索并巧妙地运用哥特式结构的细节，以引发相应感受。合成宝石作为一种较低生态印记的材料，被切割成罕见的平面式结构，使其强烈色彩映射到皮肤之上。

Contemplative self-exploration and meditation are encouraged by the collection, the jewellery acts as a media to provoke unique individual experience through playful interaction between the design and wearer.

该系列激发浸入式的自我探索和沉思。珠宝作为媒介，通过设计和佩戴者之间的有趣互动来激发独一无二的个人体验。

— 03 —

Yin-Yu Tseng

澳大利亚

Education

2017-2019Bachelor of Fine Art (Gold & Silversmithing) RMIT University

Exhibitions and other

20192019 RMIT University grad show

2019BCU @B1_3PA B1 exhibition

2019Radiant Pavilion 2019- Jewellery Alert, RMIT University City Campus

Building 24 RAY AREA CABINETS, VIC, Australia

2019Radiant Pavilion 2019- Radical Pavlova 2019 (pop up group exhibition),

TempContemp, NorthCity4, VIC, Australia

2019Radiant Pavilion 2019- In The Drawer (group exhibition), Small Space

Jewellery, VIC, Australia

2019Selected, Artistar Jewels 2019- Fall Edition, Milano Jewellery Week, Italy

2019Craft Cubed Festival 2019- RMIT University Gold and Silversmithing

Exhibition, VIC, Australia

2019Lisa Walker: all the jewellery- RMIT University Gold and Silversmithing lead

workshop, RMIT design hub, VIC, Australia

2018Object Narratives / Wondernamel / Fairweather Report, RMIT first site gallery, VIC

2017object-ive (pop up group exhibition), RMIT University City Campus Building

2, VIC, Australia

– Statement · 设计说明 –

Two up… Three across…

The golden key quivered, wiggled, in the center

With little bits of magic to create encounter,

A small rattle appeared, it grew louder and louder Ling-ling, echoes the wonder,

The secret boxes play from experience and maker.

二，向上；三，交叉……

金钥匙在中心颤抖着，摆动着，

用一点点魔法创造偶遇；

一个小嘎嘎声出现，它越来越响亮，

更响亮的“呤呤”声，呼应着奇迹；

神秘的盒子在有经验的制作者手中被演奏着。

《Ling-Ling》胸针

Titanum, Brass, Silver, Stainless Steel, Nickle Silver, Magnent

材料：钛、黄铜、银、不锈钢、镍银、磁铁

尺寸：90x50x35mm

‘Rrrrrrrrrrr…’

A wheel turns swiftly, lathe the lathe, a changer,

Continues with vibratory sound, quicker

It spins, rounder, skinnier to the fitter,

The screws, bolts and screw joints come together.

“Rrrrrrrrrrr…”

车轮快速转动，车床，变换器，

继续振动，速度更快

它旋转，更圆，更纤细，更契合，

螺钉、螺栓和螺钉连接在一起。

《Big Nose》胸针

Brass, Silver, Stainless Steel, Rubber

材料：黄铜、银、不锈钢、橡胶

尺寸：35x40x40mm

‘Tic, tic’ beats the tackler,

The lightning melts material, hotter!

Thunders the welder,

Under the scope and through the laser,

The secret boxes form from one to another.

“滴，滴” 有节奏地敲打着，

闪电将材料融化，更热了!

电焊机发出雷鸣。

在激光照射下，

神秘盒子一个接一个地形成。

《Ding》胸针

Silver, Stainless Steel,

材料：银、不锈钢

尺寸：20x20x40mm

The hidden chapter,

Embodied through making in the creator,

As instruments, express, enliven and more,

To narrate the song of story-maker,

An imagination awaits the wearer.

隐藏的章节，

等待着被创造。

作为一种工具，一种表达，一种乐器或更多，

讲述故事制作人的歌；

想象力等待着佩戴者。

— 04 —

温心语

中国

温心语，首饰设计师，FGA英国宝石协会鉴定师资格。

毕业于中国地质大学（北京）珠宝学院，现就职于北京工美艺术研究院。

曾获2019“工美杯”北京工艺美术创新设计大赛铜奖

– Statement · 设计说明 –

投射在室内的影子

《如影随形》系列（胸针3件、耳饰3件）

材料：光学镀膜玻璃、铝合金、925银

材料角度与颜色变化示意

人由内外两部分组成。“外”可以被描述为人的身体、长相、器官、服饰、发型等；“内”则指一个人的情绪、感受、气质、意识、气场、精神、心情等相对抽象的概念。作品探讨了人的“外”与“内”之间的关系。我将这个关系与“物体和其投影的关系”进行了类比。

成语“如影随形”最初被用来描述物体与影子，后来被用来形容两个事物密切的关系。从物体和影子的角度看，影子是物体形态的投射，但影子的形态更夸张变形；影子无法被真正触摸、没有质量和体积，但每个人都能感知到它；物体和影子时刻相伴存在，永远不会脱离彼此。人的外在和内在就如同物体和影子，二者的关系“如影随形”。

作品中使用了不同表情的人脸造型作为表达的符号。其中共有十二个个人脸，它们的投影分别象征了快乐、愤怒、哀伤、恐惧、欲望、愉悦、狂喜、骄傲、窥视、妒忌、呆滞、冷漠等不同感受。这些脸经过光照，在佩戴者身上投射出一些夸张又虚幻的影子，叠压在一起。这些影子可以被理解为一个人的多种情绪、人格分裂者的多个人格，甚至是一群灵魂。作品通过插接的方式组合，佩戴者可根据喜好随意进行组合搭配。