新设计,是新锐前沿的创意,
展现未来国际珠宝设计风向标;
新生代,是精英的珠宝设计师,
汇聚时代发展的声音和力量;
新理念,是创新的空间交流模式,
搭建沟通和碰撞的桥梁。
“新设计、新生代、新理念”DBC国际珠宝设计师作品展由红桥市场、长流当代美术馆、纽约牧风国际珠宝股份有限公司[NOOMAD INC]联合主办,长美艺术股份有限公司、北京爱微藏科技有限公司承办,十余家海内外艺术组织协办,联动北京国际设计周、中国国际珠宝展和艺象万千国际网络展览馆。
作品设计风格具有当代性、国际性和多元化的特点,促成了东西方文化的交流与对话,无疑是一场珠宝设计盛宴。
DBC国际设计师空间已入驻超过百位国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家,资历与创意纵贯大半个世纪,横跨30多个国家和地区。为了打破传统展览的空间限制,DBC与艺象万千国际网络展览馆全面合作,在全球超过50个合作网点和超过20家网络新闻媒体同步宣传,为会员设计师提供线上线下全面的展销服务。
本栏目将持续推送入驻的优秀国际珠宝设计师和首饰艺术家作品,期待您的关注。
01
Katja Prins
荷兰
SOLO EXHIBITIONS 2020
Brooklyn Metal Works, One & the Other: Two of a Kind, New York, USA
Galerie Rob Koudijs, By Default, Amsterdam, NL
LECTURES | TEACHING2020
Guestteacher/lecturer Wintersession RISD, Providence, US
Guestteacher/lecturer Massachusetts College of Art, Boston, US
Guestteacher/lecturer Cranbrook, Detroit, US
Visiting lecturer Brooklyn Metal Works, New York, US
GROUPEXHIBITIONS (selection)
BAK, Futures Without..,Master Fine Art Graduation show, Utrecht, NL
Museum Arnhem, Body Control, de grens van de mens, Arnhem, NL
Design Miami, repr. by Ornamentum Gallery, USA
SOFA Chicago, repr.by Noel Guyomarc’h, Chigago, US
Museo Del Gioiello-Basilica Palladiana, Jewellery-Sculpture, Venice, IT
Tokyo Art Fair, Holland Japonism, O-Jewel, Tokyo, JP
Museum of Arts and Design, Wear it or NOT: Recent Jewelry Acquisitions, New York, USA
Gardiner Museum, Un peu de terre sur la peau, Toronto, CA
Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Un peu de terre sur la peau, Paris, F
PUBLIC COLLECTIONS
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York , US
Museum of Arts and Design New York, US
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, NL
SM’s Stedelijk Museum ‘sHertogenbosch, NL
Mint Museum Arts&Design, Charlotte, US
Schmuck Museum, Pforzheim, DE
Museum of Modern Art, Arnhem, NL
Musée des Beaux Arts, Marseille, F
Glasmuseum Alter Hof Herding, Coesfeld-Lette, DE
Dutch Textile Museum, Tilburg, NL
CODA Museum, Apeldoorn, NL
National Glassmuseum, Leerdam, NL
European Ceramic Work Centre, Den Bosch, NL
Marzee Collection, Nijmegen, NL
Amber Centre Gdansk, PT
Studio GR20, Padova, IT
Städtische Sammlung Idar-Oberstein, DE
The Gallery of Art in Legnica, PL
Private collections US, NL, DE, IT, BE, JP, UK, TH, BR, SE, DM, ES
Statement · 设计阐述
My work is about the (intimate) relationship between human bodies and mechanic devices, (medical) technology and industry. How technology functions as our support structure in order to survive in this world.
我的作品是关于人体与机械设备、医疗技术和工业之间的关系。探讨技术如何成为人类在这个世界上赖以生存的支柱。
With my work I want to tell stories about the body: as an object of manipulation, as an instrument/ machine – instruments/machines as extensions of the body. These days our body is something we can change, sculpt. Our body as an extension of our mind, always in relationship with its surroundings and environment. After all, Man, more in particular his body, is the measure of all things.
在我的作品中,我想讲述关于身体的故事:作为一个被操纵的对象,一个充当身体的延伸的仪器。如今,我们的身体是可以改变的,可以被主观塑造的。我们的身体是我们思想的延伸,总是与周围的环境相联系。毕竟,人,尤其是他的身体,是衡量一切的标准。
The “Nexus” collection refers to “synthetic biology”, which means that today we manipulate the body at the DNA level. Nowadays we are trying to design and rebuild cell structures and DNA molecules in order to develop (‘grow”) new “ synthetic” organisms. But it also includes my fascination for ground and building plans, anatomic drawings, systems and growth-structures.
“Nexus”系列指的是“合成生物学”,在DNA水平上操纵人体。我们正试图设计和重建细胞结构和DNA分子,以开发新的“合成”生物体。但它也包含我对地面和建筑平面图、解剖图、系统和生长结构的迷恋。
The materials are reconstructed stone (reconstructed red +white coral and onyx) and silver. The lines are engraved in the silver and the stone, front and back side. The work is very flat, as if it’s sliced and can be put under a microscope where one can see the cell structures grow. Almost like a drawing, between 2D and 3D: what’s called in the engravers world 2,5D.
材料是重组的石头(红白珊瑚和缟玛瑙)和银。这些线条刻在银和石的正面和背面。作品以平面化的形式呈现,就像切片,可以放在显微镜下,可以看到类似细胞生长的结构。就像一幅在2D和3D之间的画,在雕刻者的世界里叫做2.5D。
02
谢知晋
中国
Education
· Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing, China Main course:Jewellery Design
· Politecnico Di Milano, Milan, Italy Main course:Fashion Design
· Royal College of Art, London,UK Main course:Jewellery & Metal
Exhibitions
2018 中国国际大学生时装周
China Graduate fashion week
2018 北京服装学院服饰艺术与工程学院 毕业设计展
Beijing institute of fashion Technology Graduate exhibition
Statement · 设计阐述
系列作品旨在通过我所制作的胸针⾸饰来说明时间对⼈⾝体吞噬所产⽣的影响。
The series of accessories (brooch) aim to indicate the influence of time towards the human body.
随时间流逝变化,我们的器官被各种外界因素影响,挤压变形,各个部位产⽣了同之前健康状态不⼀样的⾮正常状态。
With the lapse of time, our organics are changing constantly, and some of them tend to be abnormal.
将器官⽼化⽤⼀种变形、夸张的形式来表现⽼化之后的状态。这系列作品我使⽤了陶瓷和⾦属来制作,器官表⾯的病变机理由不同釉料、不同粗细质感的泥和做旧的⾦属来表现时间对⼈吞噬的状态。
Given such consideration, I tried to demonstrate the aged organs of people through an exaggerated form of deformation. The whole series was made from ceramics and metallic materials, in which the diseased parts were composed of different glazes, pastes of different textures, and the faded metallic materials, indicating the devourrment of time to the health of people.
03
Laila Marie Costa
澳大利亚
Laila Marie Costa is a Melbourne based artist and curator who works across contemporary jewellery, collage, assemblage, installation and occasionally sound. The nebulous spaces between fine art, craft and design are the areas that intrigue and inspire the bulk of her investigations.
Costa’s working process is based on collecting the waste and refuse of consumer culture from her daily domestic and work life. The debris is sorted by obsessive methodologies that allow the materials to infer the form. Her creations are further informed by her Italian heritage, domesticity, feminism, environmental issues, art history, materiality and humour.
Costa co-founded TempContemp, a contemporary jewellery project space within Northcity4, Brunswick, where is a current studio artist.
EXHIBITIONS(2019)
I like your old stuff better than your new stuff(solo), Carringbush Hotel, Abbotsford
Noel Counihan Commerative Art Award (finalist), The Counihan Gallery, Brunswick
Friends and Family, Daine Singer Gallery, Fitzroy
Lo Fi High, Toot Gallery, St.Kilda
Body Control, Museum Arnhem, Arnhem, The Netherlands
Collectiva, Porto, Portugal
In The Drawer, Small Space Gallery, Nth. Fitzroy (part of Radiant Pavilion Biennial)
Schmuck, Internationale Handwerksmesse, Munich, Germany
NC4EVA, The Counihan Gallery foyer, Brunswick
CURATED(2019)
The Urban Gleaner and the Plastique Pt.II, (as part of ClimArte), TempContemp, Melbourne
NC4EVA, The Counihan Gallery foyer, Brunswick(Co-curated with Anna Gray)
Schumuck Schmock, TempContemp, Melbourne(Co-curated with Anna Gray)
COLLECTIONS
Bailieu Library, The University of Melbourne Box Hill Institute of T.A.F.E
Brunswick Business Incubator Octapod, Newcastle
Rare Books, State Library of Victoria Private Collections
Statement · 设计阐述
The necklaces are a continuum of the concepts and materials that are my current concerns. Through the use of waste materials such as plastic pill packets I refer to environmentalism and sustainability challenges. Feminism, domesticity, capitalism and humour form part of my personal narratives.
项链是我当前关注的概念和材料的连续体。通过使用诸如塑料药盒之类的废料,我提到了环保主义和可持续性挑战。女权主义,家庭主义,资本主义和幽默是我个人叙事的一部分。
Thank You Big Pharma (Dangles) Necklace
《 感谢大制药公司 》项链
Materials: Sterling silver and Monofeme pill packets
材料:银,药品包装
Thank you Big Pharma is a series of necklaces made from my personal hoard of contraceptive pills packets collected over many years. These blister pill packets, some of which still contain their contents, have been sitting in a cardboard box for years alongside the other pharmaceutical packets of other pills and tablets ingested.
“Thank you Big Pharma”系列是我多年来收集的避孕药包装制成的一系列项链。其中一部分仍然装着它们的原本的内容,我已经收集这些药片包装很多年了。
Thank You Big Pharma (Amulet) Necklace
《 感谢大制药公司 》项链
Materials: Sterling silver, Monofeme pill packets and collected object
材料:银,药品包装,收集装饰
The contraceptive pill has enabled me a life unimaginable to previous generations of women and for this I am eternally grateful. Multi-national pharmaceutical companies continue to explore new medications that have enabled us a longer and healthier life. They alter the natural lifecycles of growth and evolution via processes such as in vitro fertilisation, genetic modification and cloning. The speed at which these technological advances are moving in this digital revolution prompts society to ask questions and reflect.
避孕药使我过上几代妇女无法想象的生活,对此我深表感激。跨国制药公司继续探索使我们更长寿,更健康的新药物。它们通过体外受精,基因修饰和克隆等过程改变了生长和进化的自然生命周期。这些技术进步在这场数字革命中的发展速度促使社会提出问题并进行反思。
Thank You Big Pharma (Ziggurat Cascade) Necklace
《 感谢大制药公司 》项链
Materials: Sterling silver and Monofeme pill packets
材料:银,药品包装
04
Yolanda Zheng
中国
Education
Minzu University of ChinaBA in Environmental Design
Honors and Awards
2nd Class Scholarship, Minzu University of China All-rounded Student of Zhangzhou City, Fujian Province
Statement · 设计展示
Microorganism floating in the air interests me. I researched the micro-cosmos that exposed to optical and electron microscope. Visual patterns are extracted, simplified and developed into this project.
我对空气中漂浮着的微生物感兴趣。我在光学和电子显微镜下研究了微生物的微观宇宙。其视觉结构被提取、简化并应用到系列作品中。
In this project MICROCOSMOS, I try to visualize the this micro-cosmos that invisible to our naked eye, and to explore the unity of opposite pursuits in free form and rigorousgic. These are shown in the chosen materials and combination of laser cut and handwork.
在《微观世界》系列作品中,我试图将肉眼看不见的微观世界形象化,探索在自由形式与严谨中对立追求的统一,表现在材料的选择和激光切割与手工结合的工艺模式中。
Besides, it is also a resultof my experiment on how to hide brooch base.
除此之外,这些胸针作品也使用了我对隐藏胸针底座的实验结果。
05
Holland Houdek
美国
Master of Fine Arts, Jewelry & Metalsmithing, Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Bachelor of Fine Arts (Metals Concentration), University of Wisconsin-Stout, Menomonie, WI
Selected Juried/Invited Exhibitions(2020)
March 9 Project – Solyanka Gallery, Moscow, Russia
Healing, Knowing, Seeing the Body – Spencer Museum of Art, Lawrence, KS
Site Effects – BKV, Munich, Germany
Site Effects – Baltimore Jewelry Center, Baltimore, MD
Site Effects – Art Alliance, Philadelphia, PA
Constructed Answers – CVA Gallery, Kent State University, Kent, OH
OBJECTS: REDUX – Form and Concept Gallery, Santa Fe, NM
In my Opinion – Amber Museum, Gdansk, Poland In my Opinion – Regional Museum, Konin, Poland In my Opinion – Jubinale Fari, Krakow, Poland
Statement · 设计阐述
This series focuses on medical implants, the body, and embodied experience. These hand-fabricated objects glorify the highly individual and personal nature of prosthesis and surgeries, while evoking notions of memento mori and the fragile nature of the human form.
这个系列的重点是医疗植入物,身体,和具体化的经验。这些手工制作的物品美化了义肢和手术高度个性化的本质,同时唤起了死亡的象征和人类形态脆弱的本质。
1.Displaced Renal Fixture
Kidney Replacement Neckpiece
项饰《被替代的肾脏》
尺寸 / Size: 48 x 22 x 4 cm
Using real medical implants as inspiration acquired through partnerships with the American Academy of Orthopedic Surgeons, MedWish International, and Cleveland Clinic, I re-invent and exaggerate these devices for imagined bodies and procedures. The intention is for viewers to consider their own physicality and to visualize the absent anatomies implied by the work.
通过与美国矫形外科学会、MedWish国际和克利夫兰诊所的合作获得灵感,使用真实的医疗植入物,我为想象的身体和程序重新发明和夸大了这些设备。这样做的目的是让观众考虑自己的身体,并将作品中所隐含的解剖概念形象化。
2.Inverted Illium with Offset Coccyx
Total Hip Arthoplasty Neckpiece (2016)
项饰《髂骨倒置与尾骨偏移》
尺寸 / Size:48 x 18 x 18 cm
Historically, memento mori jewelry and objects included black stones, ornate designs, and incorporated bone or hair from the deceased to commemorate their lives and/or remind oneself about the fleeting nature of life. My work updates and extends this expansive body of work by incorporating medical implants (i.e. “modern bones”) into innovative, hyperbolic designs that expand upon memento mori’s historical aesthetics and to update this concept for the contemporary age.
从历史上看,象征死亡的珠宝和物品包括黑色的石头,华丽的设计,和死者的骨头或头发,以纪念他们的生活或提醒自己的转瞬即逝的生命。我的工作通过合并医疗植入物(即植入物)来更新和扩展这一广阔的领域。“现代骨骼”变成了创新的双曲线设计,扩展了“纪念死亡”的历史美学,并更新了当代的概念。
3.Humerus with Flexible Deltoid Tuberosity
Shoulder & Bone Replacement Neckpiece
项饰《肱骨与三角肌》
尺寸 / Size:50 x 8 x 8 cm
In transforming medical implants as objects of art, I also adapt technical medical terminology to name my pieces while also using real medical devices to aestheticize and transform these objects. The result is a body of work that has allowed me to experiment with this historical jewelry/metalwork genre and invert the idea of adornment by focusing on the inside of the body. In riffing on this age-old genre of memento mori, I embrace the use of traditional metals techniques in my approach while striving for a balance between conceptual depth, technical precision, and aesthetic innovation.
在将医用植入物转化为艺术品的过程中,我也采用了医学技术术语来命名我的作品,同时也使用了真实的医疗设备来美化和改造这些物品。其结果是我的作品允许我尝试这种历史上的珠宝/金属制品类型,并通过关注身体内部来逆转装饰的想法。在重复这个古老的死亡象征流派时,我倾向于使用传统金属技术,同时努力在概念深度、技术精度和审美创新之间取得平衡。
06
Cherry Ching
程丽
中国
程丽Cherry Ching,曾服务于上市服装公司品牌部,因买不到搭配时尚服装,质量上乘又有设计感的首饰,于2013年创立了品牌,投身设计与工艺领域,打破了传统首饰的价值判断体系, 除了对贵金属和宝石的创新运用外,擅长运用水晶等天然材料,大胆探索新材料与新工艺的融合,通过设计的巧思和独创性,强调与服装的穿搭,实现艺术性和实用性的完美平衡。
作品兼具精湛工艺和时尚态度,致力于传递精致自信,自由掌控的生活理念。从最初水晶能量系列的鲜明风格开始,获得一众明星和时尚达人的喜爱,也受到多家主流时尚媒体的报道。
Statement · 设计阐述
心脏·挚爱戒指:
材料:黄铜镀金/合成刚玉/黑曜石
此系列是对享誉世界的墨西哥艺术家弗里达(Frida Kahlo)的诠释与致敬。她在充满苦难的一生中依然选择热烈绽放,向画布交出自己的生命、心灵和思想。
去掉常用的女性主义艺术家的标签,作为一个女子,弗里达和我们一样面临人生的种种问题。身体的健康、爱情的归宿、生命的价值、母性的寄托,所有无法逃避的痛苦和困惑在弗里达的戏剧人生中都被无数倍放大,她顽强的生命力给予我们能量,学会更好的拿起与放下,拓展人生的边界。
心脏·挚爱胸针:
材料:黄铜镀金/合成刚玉/黑曜石/珍珠
从弗里达瑰丽的画作中提炼出心脏,荆棘,支架,脊柱等元素,集中呈现她艺术创作中展示的精神内涵。切面金属,黑色元素,活动关节等特殊表现手法的融合,旨在用首饰语言对弗里达超现实的艺术风格和独特的内在作出最贴切的诠释。
心脏·挚爱耳线:
材料:黄铜镀金/合成刚玉
心脏元素在弗里达作品中时常裸呈可见,它是弗里达敏锐感受力和坚韧生命力的象征之一。柱状体代表血管坚韧通透的存在,金属切面将具象的心脏几何化,让光线在不同块面上折射出现代感。